5★ Chile, El Totoral 2017-06-14

Still traveling North, but we had managed to escape Ruta 5 onto a minor road that bumped along the Pacific coast. We had passed a number of relatively informal gatherings of week-enders with a few permanent residents. The road degraded further to a sandy track amongst the rocky outcrops, but a spattering of very basic shacks persisted, each tucked into a isolated spot. Clearly these people valued the very same kind of isolation that we seek - and we did not wish to intrude. We finally found our little spot for the night, amongst a spectacularly craggy coastline, endorsed by the friendly wave of a local. map