2017-09-18 Day 155 Mon

Before 7:00am and army car arrived to tell us we were on army land. He agreed that it is an ecological reserve but also army reserve. We said we’d be leaving in two hours and he was happy with that.

Into town to find a super market as I wanted more great local chocolate and more great yogurt; we didn't find one so headed for border. Stopped on side of road to use the last of the Ecuador Internet but so slow was not worth it so filled with cheap diesel US$35 to fill both tanks!

Checked EC out of Ecuador. Strangely we needed to cross into to Peru to both check us out of Ecuador and into Peru. Lined up at 11:00am with 4 bus loads of people. 2 hours later system died. Everyone disappeared back to Ecuador to line up again.

When we got there a mob scene was happening.

Tried to check EC back to Ecuador but couldn’t as car and passport stamps were now on a different date. So went back to Peru to wait. John finished tapping one hole for water tank and started on the other. Some French guys from a big yellow ex-US school bus came and had a chat. They are heading south. We may see them somewhere.

Went back to Ecuador to line up and after 3 hours got in door. The official took about 30 mins to clear us out of Ecuador. The other 2 immigration officials had done at least 4 people each. Now back to Peru to get our stamp into the country and to get EC in, both in a matter of minutes and we were on our way at 7:30pm in the dark.

Drove to Pueto Pizarro a fishing village. A little messy but we continued along next to ocean until a group of kids ran beside us asking us to go camp with other gringos; Argentina guys in a tent. We did so and chatted for a while they’d been here a month working as fishermen and they would be leaving at 2am for 2 days of fishing. Lots of rubbish.

2017-09-17 Day 154 Sun

Drove down hill lots of donkeys and horses with saddles to carry milk cans.
In the markets at Saint Isabell we bought fruit and vege as well as big slabs of cocoa, very bitter no sugar. John managed to buy two lengths of alloy angle to strengthen the mud flaps.

Within 10kms we entered a very dry rocky dessert mountains. Stopped for lunch and to rinse our washing in a river. Another 10km and we were in banana plantation that went for km’s

 

Crossed our northern track. Drove on a very rough slow dirt track out to an ecological reserve to find an army camp. We were told it is army so we had to back out. We did not relish all those potholes so took a short cut where we ended up at a guys back door. He had the lovely Sabor trees we admire.

Had a chat and yes we could continue out this way. Continued on to find a locked gate but the owner came with a key. Drove around to the other side of reserve; through an industrial area; then more potholes and camped in the bush 5m from road.

2017-09-16 Day 153 Sat

Some fishermen turned up at about 7:30am so John spoke to them and found out where they were going. We watched to see their track.

We left about 9:30am with waterproof pants and ponchos on. A light drizzle was falling.



We were walking in wetlands. I felt a little guilty walking off track but then I wasn't leaving tracks like the cattle did. It drizzled on and off and the mist came and went. A very pretty walk. We walked back by another track and saw another small lake. We saw two eagles catch fish and fly around with them in their beaks. One flew to the creek again and caught a second one. So he was flying with two fish in his beak. Not sure how he did that. Got back to EC about 12:30pm.

A Bombedero forrestal (fireman) was talking to two young guys on a motor bike and then talked to John. We were not sure quite what it was about. But he was still watching when we left

We headed back the way we had come and decided to stop at some other lakes. Walked to them and saw some campers with two dogs and a fire both prohibited. Decided to go tell the Bombedero guy but he was gone.

Turned off to a small white road to the west and south. Slow going but very beautiful drive.

Saw cream cans sitting in the streams to keep cool before pickup. Stopped and had lunch on the side of the road. Got up to 3998m alt. Saw herds of dairy cows (10) and some being milked. Stopped often to take photos of the view and flowers. Finally found a camp on a corner of the road. Had made 55km’s in 4 hours this arvo…. Should make the Peru border tomorrow. 2850m alt.

2017-09-15 Day 152 Fri

Had the best internet connect since we arrived in Ecuador so got the blog and photos up to date. The cows were being hand milked in the paddocks around us.

About 11am we drove down to the Ingapirca archaeology site. Supposed to be the largest best preserved in Ecuador. Could only enter with a guide the cost of entrance US$2 each. A very well maintained site.

The locals the Canari peoples could not be overthrown by force so the Inca married their princess. Although the Canari were outnumbered they were allowed to keep their customs separate.

The Inca built over the Canari’s foundations. The Canari used river rock and built in circles the Inca volcanic and squares. The Sun temple is oval and 26m long the biggest and only oval sun temple in the entire Inca empire. We had a sandwich in the carpark and left for the south end of Cajas Nacional parque.

Our drive went through a big dairy area most cattle tethered in their paddock. So maybe herds of 20 all milked by hand in the paddock. John saw a billboard advertising an in-paddock four cup milker…

Milk was put into milk cans and then when the small tanker arrived tipped into it.

Some of the cows are tethered by a nose ring others by a halter or rope around horns.

Successfully by-passed Cuenca to the east and south. The witch then took us on second rate yellow roads through some villages. Finally popped out onto a better grade road which was yellow but sealed. The seal only lasted a short time and the next 40km on dirt. Found the park entrance at 4pm. The security guard, with pistol on hip, got us to registered then we looked at the wall map and learnt what we could and couldn't do. The road travels the park boundary for a while then continues to the coast. We asked about another white road heading south and it seems that it goes through so we will leave by that route.

As we climbed the vegetation changed to wet lands/tundra looking cover. Found a parking area at the beginning of a walk to some lakes so set up camp there. A hummingbird came and checked me out. Went for a small walk up a hill just in case tomorrow s weather is inclement.

2017-09-14 Day 151 Thur

Leroy left and we rolled EC forward for maintenance. While John started jacking up both back wheels I put on a chocolate cake. We adjusted the hand-break shoes, reinstalled the left hand back mud-guard and the grey water hose. Taped and siliconed the holes in the bellow between cab and house. EC all back together now. Hand-break still does not work!!!

At San Pedro de Alausi we got off the red road onto an orange. Much nicer without all the traffic. We turned south at Yalancay and took a back road. On one of the roads the locals turned us back as the road did not go through. We rejoined the Red road and started looking for a camp. As we got closer to Canar the population grew. Finally decided on a yellow road that by passed Canar.

At the turnoff was sign posted to Ingapica archeology site. We finally got to the site and continued uphill and uphill past where our map finished. Turned onto a side road and camp on edge with dairy cows above and below us.

2017-09-13 Day 150 Wed

 Back up hill and through 5 or 6 of tunnells. Some had lots of water comingthrough the roof. After one we stopped to look at a water fall.

There was a cage to cross the river and some wires that support you as you “fly “across. Looked great fun but not into trusting Ecuadorian maintenance.

Stopped opposite an active volcano and had lunch. Too much cloud around to see the top which was a shame.

Stopped just before Riobamba to get EC greased for US$3.00. Asked the guy where to get the mudflaps straightened and he pointed back the way we came. We found the metal work shop and he re-bent the mudguards with his press for us. He didn't charge so we gave him a Kangaroo bottle opener.

We turned off the main red road to drive west 10km’s to drive south on a orange road. Found some pigs to feed and saw our first milk tanker.

We were looking for a camp and had slowed down to look at possibilities and an orange clad guy hailed us. Yes Leroy again. He had just taken his bike off the road to set up camp and was just watching the vehicles to see how visible he was and spotted us. We back tracked to a side road and Leroy joined us for the night. Amazing that we bumped into each other again and more amazingly at camp time.

2017-09-12 Day 149 Tue

After discovering that our son Christopher has our quick draws for climbing a bolted climb, we decided not to climb. Instead we gave the hand-break some attention as it has stopped working and continues too. Somehow the cable is 2 inches too long…..

We drove south down and then up again. The up took us on the edge of a NR neat forest/jungle. As we crested the top and headed down we were in mist and light rain. Very pretty. Lots of old trees covered with Bromiliades.

Stopped at some Shaman caves. Cost US$3.50 each. The guide took us through the forest to see the turtle and the anaconda. Saw spider monkeys jumping between trees. Really quite small animals. The cave was interesting in that it had a very flat roof. The stalagmites and stalagtights were really quite small.

Just below a couple of water falls was a large water pumping station We assume pumping water back to the capital Quito.

Parked on a very stony river bank for lunch. A local guide got out of his raft to inform us (in English) that if it rains we should leave as 2 days ago the river was much higher than where we were parked. I informed him we’d be gone shortly. 

Road in the afternoon was pretty good and we made it to our camp which was on another river beside a narrow suspension bridge. Cars and light trucks were travelling it but not us.

2017-09-11 Day 148 Mon

Spent some time catching up on Photos. Very foggy up the top of the hills and a little damp here with light rain. We left about 10am and drove for an hour in the fog. Was not a comfortable drive. When we first entered Ecuador we thought the drivers very courteous and safe, Up north here they are mad. I came around a corner going downhill and a slow bus was overtaking a slower truck. The bus the bus just flashed his lights at me. I ended up at a complete standstill. There was nowhere to go big tropical gutters on the side…..

We stopped just north of Quito (capital) in El Condado and had lunch in a big shopping complex. Bought some nice looking whole grain bread and sour dough. But could not find a hardware shop for the extension.

The drive out East to the airport was pretty spectacular. Very steep toll-way with lots of work done in battering and securing the cuttings.

We then headed east and up-hill. Got to about 4200m alt. again and then down.

There was a short road on the map off the highway at Cuyuja. We took it then noticed rock-climbing signs. Crossed the river and are camped at the climbing ground. The ground was built by the hydro electro company, I assume, as they have a small hydro power station by the town. All bolted climbs. Maybe tomorrow…

We drove from 800m alt. up to 4200m and back down to 2376m

2017-09-10 Day 147 Sun

Had a little walk on the beach but drizzling a little. Headed out and filled with diesel at the garage where we got water yesterday. Drove up North and crossed the equator. There was a small sign indicating we had made it. A bit disappointing really.

We stopped in Pedernales for some bread and managed to buy some nuts and washers to use as spaces on the hand break cable. Should suffice till we can purchase a shorten one.

Headed inland. We hope to camp just north of the equator. I have now flown, sailed and driven across the equator. Bought a paw paw, pineapple, ½ a water melon and some mandarins.

Just before lunch time another gunshot noise and a slump and pull to left; yes another tyre blown to shreds. Managed to drive off road into a gate way. Down to one spare. We are wondering if these second hand tyres somehow degraded while in storage. It is strange to have a blowout let-alone two. 4000km's to go to Arica to pick up 4 new tyres.

Two crazy motorbike incidents today. We had a coach coming towards us and the motor bike overtook it, between a bus and truck??? The other was a motorbike decided to undertake a ute.

They seems crazy drivers up north.

Found a camp in a river bed (Rio Blanco) below San Miguel de Los Blancos. Drilled two of the 4 holes needed to fix the no2 water tank’s straps. Cannot tap them as we need a long extension, will try and buy tomorrow.

Caught up on the blog but now need descent Internet to upload.

2017-09-09 Day 146 Sat

Had Internet so did a little work catching up with the blog etc.

Walked down beach to watch fishermen come in and then the women joined them to remove the catch from the nets. Anything and everything from prawns to large hermit crabs to small catfish and large catfish, flounder and other weird and wonderful species of fish.

An Aussie who is living here saw us at the fishing boats and invited us to his unit for a drink. We dropped in on Peter as we were leaving town. Had a beer/wine with him then went down the street for a feed of fish. 

Drove off north got as far as Jama filled with water at the garage. John has used one of our big tie down straps to secure water tank no 2. Then drove on a dirt road out to the beach and camped above the tide line. We found a very pink pig to give our scraps to on this road. I went to the gate and 3 little girls ran up and took the food to the piggy. Nice quiet camp. 50km’s short of the equator.

Took the cover off the hand break to see why it catches occasionally. Looks like the last service a new cable was put in but it is too long.

2017-09-08 Day 145 Fri

Drove back into town for our boat trip. Saw lots of whales. First one with calf then ½ a dozen others. One surfaced close by. John jumped in near some seals for a snorkel. While doing that we on the boat watched a whale flap his fluke on the surface about 20 times.

We had a snorkel in the lee of the island. Lots of fish but not much else. Did see a turtle which John tried to grab….

Driving north we saw a restaurant on a remote stretch of road so back tracked for lunch.

The serviette holders were a work of art!  While waiting for our fish to be prepared we watched a whale breeching (6 times) and flapping its flippers on the surface all continually for 1½ hours. A great sight.

Bought bolts to fix the water tank brackets on the outskirts of Manta and drove on to camp at end of road near Manglar La Boca.

2017-09-07 Day 144 Thur

Had lunch at the lookout above Salango and spied a camp site just south. Checked out the camp site ad then went into Salango to look into a boat charter. We had planned to Kayak out to the island of Salango about 600m off-shore but there was quite a swell running….

Hire of a boat and skipper US$50 for 2 hours for two, so agreed upon 8:00am tomorrow morning.

2017-09-06 day 143 wed

More westing to Salina on the coast and then north. It is overcast and has been for a few days and not overly hot or humid. About 26 degrees. Really quite unexpectedly cool for this close to equator.

Finally found a dirt road towards the ocean and beside a river. After 50m there was a private property sign so we turned back and camped beside the road. A pretty spot with the frigate birds flying around and grabbing food from the river.

2017-09-05 day 142 tue

A big day of driving. The road was pretty good in sections two lanes so got some miles done. Some of the roads had banana plantations on either side as far as the eye could see.

Towards the end of the day we figured we could get through Guayaquil. The witch wanted to send us up and around it so we used Google to go through. Half way through two stationary police pulled us over. We should have been driving in the truck lane. They checked our papers and on we went.

Planed on staying near lago Chongon. However when we got there (driving up the cycle path) it was a park with big entrance indicating parque closed at 16.30 it was now 16:00hs. We asked the guards if we could stay the night ,explaining we were self contained, they were very involved watching a football (soccer) match) and yes we could stay in first car park.