Showing posts with label Tajikistan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tajikistan. Show all posts

2019-07-09 Day 285 Tue

I woke about 6am with the thought that I had not paid the Prado’s rego in Australia. With the limited internet connection it took me more than one hour to check that a payment had not been set up then to set one up with added complications of switching my anz shield code to my new phone…..




I managed to get a set of photos on one page of the blog over the next hour while chatting to john Yeo and completing a DuoLingo Russian lesson.
 
We left about 10, just after two motorcycles went past followed by the side car.
The grave yard had this hair tied to the poles. Looked a bit like scalps the Indians used to take.

















It was a lumpy but interesting drive to the border. 
 
Huge river flats full of blue gravel that are feed by a small narrow stream… Not sure that either of us understood that.
The Fence to keep a zone free area to the Chinese border was in most part intact but for a stretch past the town it looked like some of the poles had been pilfered for a better use.








The exit from Tajikistan was easy and I managed all the paperwork. I was asked to leave my boots at the door but as it was warm in the first office it didn't matter. His sleeping quarters were in another room and a kitchen was curtained off.
The whole area was very sad looking with broken down buildings and very uneven road which obviously gets very muddy.
A brand new row of about 10 solar panels was being installed so maybe their life will improve. It seems on our travels that the staff at the border crossings get very little comfort.
The second” office” was cooler but the hut did have a smoking chimney so his living quarters were warm.
Up to the pass and the two posts. The Goat is in Kyrgyzstan and the map in Tajikistan


The way down can be quiet slippery if wet.

Through and onwards or should I say downwards from here 4285m altitude it is all down hill to Osh the capital about 230km away.


These two lads were trying to stop vehicles and invite them into the Homestay for chai.
 
A very rough road down to the Kyrkystan checkpoint some 15km. We had to wait in line to get through so we had lunch a hastily thrown together potato salad. We were behind a couple of Swiss who had cycled to Kazakstan then bought a van and were touring about.  

Our turn, passports stamped then we entered the offoiceforthvehicle. John had to do this as his name on the rego. All done the guy was joking lots then said we had to hand the paper into the russian customs when we left russia as kyrkistan,kazakstan and russia have a customs union agreement. All good till he said w ehad one month to exit Russia, we baulked and said we needed 3 months and he laughed and said we had a year.
 

Yurts yaks goats and rain.



I woke about 6 with the thought that I had not paid the prado’s rego. With the limited internet E connection it took me more than one hour to check that a payment had not been set up then to set one up with added complications of switching my anz shield code to my new phone…..





I managed to get a set of photos on one page of the blog over the next hour while chatting to john Yeo and completing a duolingo Russian lesson.
We left about 10, just after two motorcycles went past followed by the side car.

The grave yard had this hair tied to the poles. Looked a b it like scalps the Indians used to take.



















It was a lumpy but interesting drive to the border.
Huge river flats full of blue gravel that are feed by a small narrow stream… Not sure that either of us understood that.
The Fence to keep a zone free area to the chinese border was in most part intact but for a stretch past the town it looked like some of the poles had been pilfered for a better use.











The exit from Tajikistan wass easy and I managed all the paperwork. I wa sasked to leave my boots at the door but as it was warm in the first office it didnt matter. His sleeping quarters were in another room and a kitchen was curtained off.
The whole area was very sad looking with broken down buildings and very uneven road which obviously gets very muddy.
A brand new row of about10 solar panels was being installed so maybe their life will improve. It seems n our travels that the staff at the border crossings get very little comfort.
The second” office” was cooler but the hut did have a smoking chimney sohis living quarters were warm.

Up to the pass and the two posts. The Goat is in Kyrgyzstan and the map in Tajikistan



The way down can be quiet slippery if wet.


Through and onwards or should I say downwards from here 4285 it is all down hill to Osh the capital about 230km away.


These two lads were trying to stop vehicles and invite them into the Homestay for chai 
 
A very rough road down to the Kyrkystan checkpoint some 15km. We had to wait in line to get through so we had lunch a hastily thrown together potato salad. We were behind a couple of Swiss who had cycled to Kazakhstan then bought a van and were touring about.  

Our turn, passports stamped then we entered the office for the vehicle. John had to do this as his name on the rego. All done the guy was joking lots then said we had to hand the paper into the Russian customs when we left Russia as Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and Russia have a customs union agreement. All good till he said we had one month to exit Russia, we balked and said we needed 3 months and he laughed and said we had a year.
 

Yurts yaks goats and rain.






Of down the bumpy road all the way to Sary-Tash. We changed our Tajik money into local at the gas station then they let us use their wifi. It started to rain the first for a while.
John downloaded the contour lines for kyrg and I rang Muff. We had a good chat and caught up on the gossip.
I spoke to a Spanish guy looking for a lift to Tajikistan he told us of a good spot to see - Lenin Peak.


Plans changed and we left drove the 25km west then south 20kms on a two wheel track - a fast one and the smoothest road for the last 2 weeks!!
 

A beautiful camp just by the lake in rolling hills at the foot of the unseen mountains. It was still drizzling and cloud/mist was covering the mountains and Lenin peak.


 155km  Campsite  3503m alt.













2019-07-08 Day 284 Mon


John awoke feeling much better, but still a bit flat.
We headed back towards town and although I had signal we could not get data so all the way back to town. 
 
Bought two types of nectarines and some tomatoes the young lady told me where the Megafon shop was. 
 
A lady getting water from a public well.



Next we bought some eggs and apricots out of a shipping container (shop). Then on to the bazaar which was quite bazar! A wide walkway lined with old containers made into shops. Bought a few vegies and bread then headed to the shop near where the guys stayed last night for some oil then back to megafon as still no internet. Finally got connected and headed out of town to sit and do some blogs.


 I made a chocolate cake but it was very full of bubbles and crumbly. Still nice but very light and crumbly must be the new baking powder…

We finally moved on towards the lake Kara Kul which is close to the main road and border to Kyrgyzstan.











 
Our first Yak

We were close to the Chinese border and there was a fence with razor wire following the road. The road is 10km’s and more from the border but I guess this was the easiest place to build it. Not sure if it is to keep people in or out. But in places the posts have been taken for a better purpose.
    



We saw the side car so stopped to see them in their camp then continued to the other side of the town and found a nice spot with internet. Beautiful blue lake and white snow clad mountain peaks.

147km  Campsite  3929m alt.



2019-07-07 Day 283 Sun



 I woke with a bit of a headache at 4:30am. We both tossed and turned until john rose at 6. John was feeling a bit flat but put it down to altitude.
The stove would not start. Took 5 tries which equates to an hour. It started when we ran the engine.
Finally got on the road again. Met the side car and gave them some water. Then drove on. 
 
Stopped to speak to some French cyclists who were traveling from Malaysia back home…. A car stopped behind us which had an acquaintance of theirs and the two young guys we met yesterday.
Then the side car turned up….
We moved on. Saw two young french ladies hitch hiking the other way. We
 have seen more travelers in the last two days than in the entire trip!!
Came across the bikers from last night with a flat. We inflated it for them and moved on.
John was starting to feel rather unwell. We arrived in Murghab, and put 40lt of diesel in. A Korean came to chat with john and was very interested in the vehicle. Sadly John was not up for a chat. The young guys came to say hello, and the bikies turned up. We traded some local soms for US $20 to a young Swiss couple had had just arrived in town from Kyrgistan.
John had the shakes so we left town and huddled into the side of a hill off the main road. Sadly no internet. John went to bed fully clothed and tucked in.He slowly warmed up and found relief in sleep.

 164km  Campsite 3709m alt.

2019-07-06 Day 282 Sat

The valley was opening up the further east we drove. Now there was fertile land on both sides of the river.

Washing carpets

The new trees are a stick planted with other prickly branches tied around them to stop them from being eaten.
 They advertised their 60th with rocks on the hills in 3 different languages.
 The people are friendly and beautifully dressed. The ladies and girls wear lovely bright colors. Washing of clothes and carpets is done outside beside one of the water races.




These wild sheep or goat horns became a very common site perched above gate ways.









We pulled off onto the flood plain beside a goat herder for our lunch. These calves enjoyed the shade the EC provided.

 The villages are all neat tidy and clean, very little rubbish to be seen. With a lot of trees planted.

In Langar two lads came up to us and said Aussie Aussie Aussie one a Canuck who lives in Perth and the other  a Pom traveling by public transport. But are at the end of the public transport they'll try to hitch tomorrow.
At the last border crossing  into Afghanistan we turned uphill and spent about 30 km away from and above the river. It  was too steep for a road beside the river.



We are now above where the Wakhan river joins the Pamir river to create the Panj. So now we are following a much smaller rieko Pamir.
The road is more like a good track in fact quite good surface here.
We came across a Russian side car with German owners. We had quite a chat. The sidecar wheel also can be driven. They were stopped to cool the engine. It is air cooled and driving slowly down wind….








At Khargush we left the river behind and headed north. 




Goat and sheep in their corral.

 






We saw some motor bikes camped and stopped to say hello. They were in a windy spot but had a dung fire burning.
 
We continued on and turned into the lake Oziero Karadara and found a nice spot overlooking the lake. Got to and washed and rinsed the clothing and John hung it up outside. 
 
The stove is taking some starting which doesn't make me smile….
 


The golden Marmot are everywhere and make a bird like call with their warning.

Cooked dinner and a semolina pud. Then we both collapsed into bed. We knew we were pushing our luck in regards to altitude. We had come up 200m more to 4230 than we really thought wise. However we both felt OK going to bed


 164km Campsite  4231m alt.