2019-01-18 Day 129 Fri

Raining gently. A guy came past on a tractor with trailer and dropped off the trailer on the edge of the soccer field then drove the tractor to the top of the small hill that I had been eyeing off last night. Obviously the tractor needs to be roll started. He started shoveling dirt into the trailer and John took his spade and went and helped. He re-coupled the trailer and drove off.

We left and headed for Albania. Crossing out of Montenegro was easy, there were 4 cars in front of us and the policeman came and collected our passports. We had to wait at the little window a while to receive ours back. We drove off then realize they had not been stamped so we went back. The police man happily stamped them for me. When I got back to EC there was a lady asking for money for her hungry son. We gave here a pear, I don't think it was appreciated much.

We stopped in Shkoder to get some money. The town was choked with cars so we got out in a hurry, but everywhere I asked we needed to go back into the center for a SIM card.

We drove up towards the Rozafa castle but the little bridge didn’t look like it’d hold us. We parked and John made us a sandwich with the new buns purchased, Quite good bread. We contemplated walking up to the castle but it was raining still and already 3pm.

I chose a different way into the city which was far less chaotic and I managed to purchase a vodafone SIM with 5gb for a month and 10gb of social media access……

John had noticed a neat ferry trip for 25km up river. So we headed that way while I tried to research. Didn't look like it ran in winter but I tried to book. We drove 14km out a windy slow road around the edge of the lake when we got confirmation that the ferry was not running so we high tailed it back out. Parked on the side of the road after dark, 5kms from the turn off. Dogs barked all night with only the occasional car passing.

89km
 

Camp site

2019-01-17 Day 128 Thu

I was a bit slow out of bed. We had a walk down on the pebbly beach then decided it was time to drive on. We headed back inland and up into the snow again, heading for lake Skadar. A well used yellow road. Joining the orange road we then traversed the bridge and causeway but apart from a few fisherman trying to sell their catch, there was little to see. We retraced our steps across the bridge and turned south onto another yellow road that runs the length of Lake Skadar to Albania.

The narrow road was more so with the uncleared snow. Beautiful scenes to be had looking down onto the lake and across to the mountains in Albania. The road was not only very narrow, windy, slippery in places, but also very rough which limited our speed to around 25km/h. Luckily we only came across a few cars but they all needed one or the other to back up. We took way to many photos…..

After we came through Kostanjica the road became a little wider, faster and more traffic. We had planed/hoped we could find a flat spot at the end of the ridge just above the Albanian border but there was no place to get off the road. 
 

A little further we spied a derelict sports ground, that would afford us a camp a a little ways off the main road but still close to a village road.

Well, once settled I did the washing, my heart wasn’t into it but it got done. Well we did not expect the traffic it was our busiest camp by far. Had no idea there were so many cars in this little village. They stopped passing about 1.30 am…

They invariably slow to pass each other and the thought that goes through the mind is that they are the police come to move us on.


 88km

Camp site

2019-01-16 Day 127 Wed

Stayed in this spot until after lunch. It was a sunny day but we did not get sunshine on us till after 10am. Really a lovely site looking down onto the coast and the bays.

Just after we left camp we came to another work site and a workers Hut with I assume the security guard at the door, he gave us a big wave ...the guy that was walking yesterday perhaps?

John drove us to Cetinji which is the original capital we of Montenegro. We stopped in town for a walk. Street was not that interesting. Although on a couple of neglected buildings they had material pictures which made the buildings really interesting.

Found a super market and bought a few things as well as some fruit and raisins.

 

I then drove us to the police station to register but no, we need to register at the tourist bureau and it is too late they close at 1500 hrs.

So on we went with plans to register in the next big town.

I zig zaged our way down out of the snow for a camp down close to the Adriatic. 

 62km
 

Camp site

2019-01-15 Day 126 Tue

We had no credit left on the SIM so I waked along to the shop which was closed. Spent some time organizing photos. Great to have running water again.

Michael did not turn up and it was too rough and windy for a peaceful row around the bay so we packed up and continued around the peninsular to the police station at Kotor to register, after waiting 10mins for the police women to return from her food shopping, I found out we need to register in the tourist information office outside the old town wall.

Parking was 3€/hour oh well. I registered us for 2€ each being rather vague with the camping word but that didn’t seem to be a problem so all done. We had a little walk around, one church was a few € to enter so we did not. John thought it would be nice to walk up the wall to the little chapel. It seemed OK with my knees so we went on to the top only 220m vertical, but the height of steps seemed to suit my knees well. We did not understand the layout of the walls as the arrow slits aimed back down into the town… Any way and interesting walk and explore. 
 

When we got down, lunch was had in a restaurant - my fish was great Johns not so good. 
 

Time to leave Kotor. John drove us up the 23 switchbacks above the town.What a great view but we were in the snow again….

Turned off on the road to Cetinje the old capital it was covered in snow but had been plowed. A road work signed indicated that the road would only be open at certain times but the machinery hadn’t moved in many a day.

Came across a taxi stuck in the soft edge of the snow in front of us. We got out to give him a push - no passing room here. He indicated for me to jump in drivers seat. So with the seat moved forward and two guys pushing we got it out and up around the corner to firmer road. He thanked us and left, we followed him a ways till we found a lovely place beside the road to camp looking down on the bays. Our water pipes were frozen before we went to bed.

47km
 

Camp site

2019-01-14 Day 125 Mon

It was raining gently so maybe we will get the salt washed off EC. John did give her a bit of a brush down in the rain. And I did my bit by driving through all the puddles I could find.

We used our last little bit of cash (we thought) and bought fuel, I thought we had more cash but hadn't had a proper look. The plan was to cross the border down near Prevlaka, an orange on this side a white in Montenegro but we came across road closed sign at road works so 14km back out. We crossed on Jadranska magistrala very easily and quickly. Bought fuel with euro’s and did a shop for more food. We seem to shop but don't buy much for the fridge. However I did get a hock for soup 8€, our first beef 8€ in a while for stew and a chunk of pork loin 3€. So at least we wont starve. Then of course I found the rest of our Croatian currency.

Amazing views along the coast but lots of traffic. We stopped for lunch with a view of “Our lady of the rocks” a church on a man made island. A drive through Perast the road right on the sea with very little passing room. Quaint town.

We are now in a twice land locked bay!

In Kotor I walked to the police station to find that I could not register today as closed come back tomorrow. We continued around the coast looking for a camp. Very narrow street with no where to get off. There are little solid jetties out into the bay every now and again with garden or parking or seating on them. We came across a couple of guys chatting on one and they waved I got out to ask if we could stay on it for the night “yeah no problems”. We chatted to Franco and Michael then Micheal's wife came who had good English. We were invited back home for coffee. Just 3 houses away. Before our coffee was even made the Raki came out along with red wind. Both were very good for home made.

We chatted for a while learning that they are happy with the tourists as they have an apartment upstairs. Winter gets boring and towards the end of summer they want the tourists to leave!!

We had dinner at Franco’s brothers restaurant. Fried squid.

110km

Camp site

2019-01-12 Day 123 Sat

Woke to -9℃ on the gauge. The sun rose without being shy and hiding behind clouds, a beautiful day. First real sun in weeks!! although we did had a few hours yesterday. Spoke to Muff and Puff in Melbourne they are off on their trip to Africa and a cruise back on QEII. 
 

We made an easy boarder crossing from Montenegro back into Bosnia and John drove us into Trebinje where we had a look at the Perovica Bridge. It was built in the 15 century and was moved in the 1980’s when the hydroelectric dam was put in. Stone by stone. When we got back to EC we realized that the solar panels were pumping some power in maybe today we can start equalizing the batteries.
 

I then navigated up the hill to the Serbian Orthodox Monastary, only 20 years old but the fresco’s are already peeling.

Then we sat a little ways down the hill with the nose down and the solar panels aimed at the sun. We sat there for over an hour and had one hour at 16v so hopefully some good.

Next to the supermarket to spend our remaining Bosnian money. I found an enamel pot with no handles that will fill the camp oven. Have been looking for a while now… Spent all but a few Marks.

I drove us towards Croatia and John picked a superb camp on an old road, looking over Croatia and the Adriatic sea.
 

It was only 14:30 so we left all electrics off to put a higher voltage into the batteries although didn’t get to 16v as the sun was low in the sky. 

The rubber parts that had been soaking in silicon spray in a sealed bag seem to be more flexible. They initially got very soft and were a concern but  have become less soft maybe the propellant heated them??

We put the water pump back together and cannot blow back thru the pump, so that is a definite improvement. All of the plumbing is frozen so could not check the pump with water - maybe tomorrow.

I put the two new bulbs in the number plate light.

When we got inside I just had to check the new pan would work so the result a chocolate cake that looks pretty good for first try.

75km

Camp site

2019-01-11 Day 122 Fri

Happy birthday Chris.

About 08:00 a large loader came and cleared snow beside us widening the corner then continued on down the road to the hydro-station. Next a 4x4 went down, then a mini bus, then a full size coach. Must be the workers turning up. We left shortly after for civilization to buy a SIM to make a birthday call
 

A clearer morning and wow what a road and vista and tunnel after tunnel after tunnel. We crossed the dam wall then followed the lake. We had this amazing road until Pluzine 17km.

I bought a SIM at the gas station and had to register with my passport. 
 

Chris did not answer his phone and we found out through Muff that he is out bush.

We visited Piva Monastery which was first built in 1573 to 1586. Before the Piva river was dammed for Hydro in 1982 the church and fresco's were taken down and moved to this sight and rebuilt exactly as before. A 5 year project. Amazing that they could move the fresco’s so well. The whole interior are just covered in them. Piva had 3 Australian emu eggs, said when fresh to keep spiders out.

 

 

We continued south to Niksic where there was a Police station. I went in to register. Much easier than other places. I filled in both forms signed for John and the policeman asked where we’d be tonight I said somewhere between here and the border and he chose a place to put in the form. All good.

We bought a few bits of veg and milk but still the fridge is empty….. Was getting late as we left town so looked for a camp overlooking the lakes and town. We spied the old road going around an outcrop of rocks. I spoke to the lady of a farm house nearby and asked if it was OK. She was OK with the idea. So we have “hid” from the traffic but close to the road in snow that is 20cm deep

Camp site

107km

2019-01-10 Day 121 Thu

We did a big catch up of photos and blog and even ate lunch before we left camp. The snow was forming these neat scarves on the rails.

Retraced out steps to Gorazde where John went back to the supermarket and bought 2 more Merlot and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Best AU$5 bottle of wine he has had in ages.

Followed the Drina River south to Foca the road was cleared of snow and what was left on the road was slush.

Just south of Foca we left the main route and crossed to the east side of the Drina and continued south. The road was still orange but did not have as much traffic and, although plowed, there was still a few inches of snow on the road. About half way to the Montenegro border (10km) the road became quite slippery we traveled quite slowly. The road had only been cleared of snow to one vehicle width so had to be weary of oncoming cars. We only saw 3 cars in total.

Scepan border crossing. Leaving Bosnia was quick and easy we then crossed the Tara River into Montenegro. The Police were quick and friendly and the customs were not overly interested. Another country. The border crossing is not far from where the Tara and Piva rivers join to become the Drina.

It was now after 16:00 and we were slowly loosing light. The road had two lanes open and was not slippery, Drove through a few tunnels above the Piva river then through a tunnel onto a bridge and immediately into a tunnel again. Another 5 tunnels and we found a flat area at the intersection of the hydro-electric road that was nicely cleared. Lots of cars and buses came past over the next few hours probably about 30 vehicles not sure where they came from or going too.

Chris’s birthday but cannot ring him tonight as we do not have a Montenegro SIM yet. But we did celebrate with roast pork leg in the camp oven on the stove top, no crackling but was great all the same. 

119km
 

Camp site