2018-12-14 Day 94 Fri

A quiet night beside the river. Checking the forecast again changed our minds we would now head towards the coast and more stable weather. It is forecast for 3-5cm of snow today another 10-20cm tonight, and yet more tomorrow. 

Our minds now made up we headed off NW towards the border with Croatia. Not to Hungary as yesterday's plan was.

As we drove the snow started and got heavier. Not good visibility.

We drove past carrot harvesting in the snow, and there were bags of carrots for sale on the side of the road; with the ubiquitous cabbage.

We made a big grocery shop in Movi Sad at a Roda Megamart and it was the biggest store we had been in for a while. Did not buy meat as was not well looked after, but we bought lots of smoked meat, muesli and enough to spend out last 9000 of notes A$120. The wine had to go on the card. Some of the smoked meat was quiet expensive. A$30/kg

Getting closer to Christmas

These big wells are often used to fill the animal troughs.

Next a little more fuel to get us over the border; we didn’t fill as it is over A$2 in Serbia and a little cheaper in Croatia. We sat in the gas station for a few minutes and did some phone updates and had an espresso (A$2 each getting more expensive).

At our lunch stop I didn't want to put the roof up as the snow would get caught, and then when dropped it, melt and run into the vehicle.

At boarder control, we drove passed the waiting trucks filling our lane and slotted in behind 4 cars. A quick look inside the house door and we were out. Onto the Croatia border passed more trucks waiting and again with a quick look in a locker. Asked about cigarettes and alcohol. Again through very quickly.

It was still snowing and by now quite a few inches had settled. We camped at Aljmas perched on a dock overlooking the Danube.

I had a couple of honey, lemon and brandy drinks and went to bed, with a sore throat and thick head. We had a visit from the police while john was still up; but just checking papers.

164km

Camp site

 

2018-12-13 Day 93 Thu

We drove across the country of Serbia to see the fort and it was closed till next year. A bit of a disappointment. We drove past (or under as the case was) then turned around and headed back towards Belgrad.

Our thoughts had been to go visit the capital, maybe grab a hotel for two nights, and just have a look at the city. However as we got closer this held less appeal and we changed direction to “miss” the capital.

100 km south east of Belgrade, between Ralja and Radinac were lots of rail lines marked. It turned out to be a very smelly dirty area with several smoke stacks and piles of coal (hence the rail lines). A coal power plant. Not a nice feeling about the place

To market to market....


We crossed the Danube again and headed on North. The idea was to head north to Hungary’s capital Budapest before heading for the coast.

After a few circuits of the back streets of Titel, John finally found us a camp on the West bank of the Tisza river. About 10km north of the Danube. We had camped on the Tisza river our third night in Hungary on the 27^th October. And another time

in Ukraine on November 11^th. A much visited River. 

196km
 

Camp site

2018-12-12 Day 92 Wed

John ventured out in the morning to replace our drinking water filter and before too long the local farmer was down for a chat (with his minimal English and Johns total lack of Serbian). The two of them headed out to a field to investigate the small mounds of earth that we had been wondering about. The farmer watched on with obvious amusement as John dug up one of the mounds to find no burrow beneath. Apparently the industrious little animals construct the mounds then scurry of somewhere else to sleep.

We were treated to a thorough and enthusiastic tour of two local farms and were most interested to see the half dozen milking cows in their stalls, each with a dedicated drinking fountain. Dragana was a pretty creative chap - having fabricated a tool to rewind burnt our electric motors. We were also proudly shown the tiny local wooden Orthodox Christian Church.

It was midday by the time we bid farewell to our new Serbian friends and departed with fresh milk, eggs and preserved chilies

Headed for the castle fort at Goublac and the Danube. Most of it was on Orange road and although not much traffic was still quite slow as it had an uneven surface and lots of villages.

The decision was made to push through to the castle and if a camp was not available we could park in the forts car-park over night.

Just before arriving at the fort we noticed a car parked to the side under the cliff on a track. The forts car-park was well lit and locked. End of that idea. Back to the cliff face and the other parked car, which happened to be 3 fishermen who had a 3 hour drive ahead of them after a 3 hour fishing expedition with no fish.

 
It was just light enough for John to take some camp photos. We assume it will be foggy in the morning.

137km 

Camp site

2018-12-11 Day 91 Tue

The road was down hill from here and out of the snow. We visited the monument called two hands which was really quite impressive close up.

While trying to find a lunch stop we came across this quaint little church.

We found our way to Sveti Veilkomucenik Georgije and paid our entry fee of 400 (A$5.5). Absolutely astonishing - the pictures are all done in mosaic. About 40,000000 tiles and 15,000 shades of colors, Then we visited the crypt beneath ……

The King of Serbia had it built in the 1920’s with marble floor and his son when he came to power a few years later had the mosaics done with Venetian glass tiles.

A quick visit to the museum the guy had good English and told us the history of the church.

By now the day was done and we had 30min to find a camp. Into some back roads, but our through road had a piece missing at a culvert and not suitable for us. We turned to camp on a rough section of grass. I noticed a nearby farmer watching and John walked over for a chat. Friendly chaps came over to look at the vehicle and all was well.

192km

Camp site

2018-12-10 Day 90 Mon

It snowed a couple of inches over night. John made a little mess getting EC out of the camp site!! The roads were not at all slippery as the snow plow had been through with his blade and sand. We nearly decided to by pass Bajina Basta and the Raca Monastery as the last few we had been in were a bit disappointing.

We stopped in Zlatibor to do a quick shop. Quite an interesting process, The roads were all dead ends or blocked off and only one way in and out.

Arrived at the Raca Monastery and were not disappointed. Some great paintings and no other visitors.

Next onto Bajina Basta township for some lunch. We drove around and couldn’t find a place to eat, So drove on. Just out of town perched above the banks of the slightly flooded Drina river we found a restaurant. Shared a mixed grill and chips. Mostly different pork cuts and sausage, was OK but nothing special. A$15

Up the hill on Yellow to find a camp over looking the river – was not to be. We ended up 4km’s down a  snow cover track perched on the side of the track with views . A few houses around but seem empty maybe summer farmers?? Two vehicles drove past late evening

167km

Camp site

2018-12-09 Day 89 Sun

As we drove up the road out from our camp the road was very icy, I guess it rained last night then the wet road froze early this morning.

The main church was locked but e followed some locals into a small chapel for a short period of service. By 9am the main church was open but again a little disappointing. The church did however house the bodies or parts of the founding father and saint of Serbia who had the church built and his brother’s (who was also a saint) mother?

Off John drove very cautiously as the road was very slippery, He drove at about 40km/hr for the first 2 hours but after we had crested a pass at 1150m altitude in the snow, the road became a little safer. At Ivanjica we headed south west and over a slightly higher pass of 1350m.

We took the track into the meanders of Uvac river. It was covered in snow with only 2 cars ahead of us. We stopped as I was unsure. It is supposed to be a popular destination but the road was not very good. John spied a hunter and I went and talked to him with the map, He was very friendly and had no English language but managed to convey where to go. He was hunting foxes.

Just before our destination, we found the car that we had been following. There was a dog  box mounted on the back and many tracks (man and dog) leading off into the snow. At the car park and we had lunch with two hungry dogs looking on. The sign before the car park reminded us it was private property, but another sign by the walking path said they sold honey and cheese.

Just as we started our walk two guys with shot-guns and 5 dogs came down the path. 

We found our way to the look out and it was quite a sight below us 4 large corners in the river. We also saw some buzzards flying below us.

We bought an expensive (A$12) jar of honey back at the house but it tasted great. I drove out the snowy track and back on the mainroad .

Another 19km’s on we turned onto a snow covered little white road and found a camp with a view.


134km 

Camp site

2018-12-08 Day 88 Sat

We drove up the hill to see the place where Emperor Galerius and his mother Felix Romuliana were burned after their deaths so that their spirit ascended to heaven on an eagles back.
 

The plan was to drive about 300km across Serbia to a meandering river. John started out well on an orange road, averaging about 80km/hr. It took us only and hour to achieve what took 4 hours on the prior day on windy yellow yellow, windy and went roads at about km/hr.


Another truck accident.

However once we turned south at Paracin on yellow our speed dropped way back to about 40km/h again.
 

John suggested a detour/shortcut on a white road for lunch and to visit a monastery. So we ended up at the Zica monastery which is set up for very large number of tourists (today there were a half dozen). The monastery was quite nice but I think we have been spoiled by the fresco’s at Rila monastery in Bulgaria. 
 

At the public toilets we decided to fill our tanks so john lowered the hose out the male toilet window. As we finished a man came out, upset that we had been stealing water, and bombing Serbia…. We apologized and offered to pay for the water, and assured him that Australia had not bombed Serbia - but he was not at all friendly. Up until know the Serbs have all been really friendly with big waves.

The day has been dreary, so good for driving. Next stop was Studenica Monastery the biggest and wealthiest in Serbia. We arrived just on sunset so found a camp down at the river. Still drizzling.

236km

Camp site

2018-12-07 Day 87 Fri

Chatted to Muff, Puff and Chris this morning. Great to catch up. Then caught up with Cynthia. A little red tractor was plowing close by so before leaving we went and had a chat. The farmer was having problems with the dirt sticking to his plow. We had the same problems with our boots!!

A gorgeous day and drive. Stayed on yellow road edged in white snow. Stopped at a wee town of Sokobanja, We visited the small church and stopped at a cafe for a coffee. There was a terrible smell in the smoke of the town. Most people had some English. Asked about getting a document printed. Ended up in a butchers and definitely no printing here but lots of home smoked produce so we left some $12 poorer. A hock for soup, some special packs of flavoured cheeses - one pack sweet the other savory. Some smoked ribs and two roast chicken Maryland. Got the document printed next door in the money exchange.!!a nice feeling to the town, if not the smoke.

Further north and lunch in a paddock. While John got lunch I did my skipping in the middle of the tar sealed road. We sat outside in the sun for lunch.

We saw this Kiln and went to investigate, but no one was home. We are not sure if it is a smoke house or a charcoal fire.

John drove on to the Felix Romuliana fort. We tried to go in from the south but the road even in 4X4 was quite slippery and narrow. We backed out which is just as well as around a corner came a lady on her tractor with a huge wave and smile when she saw the camera.

 

The fort was pretty amazing, heated roman baths again and a palace. Such times.

 

As the sun set the air grew cold. We headed back down the road we had tried to arrive by and found a spot just behind the forts walls.

87km

Campsite

2018-12-06 Day 86 Thu

Spent a little time doing some computer work. Internet has been really good in Europe generally. Can pretty much have internet access continuously. About 4 coaches came through while we were working so everyone knows we are here. John did a bit of research and realized that our clocks have changed again. Sun set is now at 16:00hrs and sunrise at 06:55hrs

I drove out around 10am and followed the yellow road to the city of Nis. Here we were doing some touristy things. Firstly we stopped at the Skull tower, interesting. This is where the defeating Turks beheaded their prisoners and sent their peeled skulls of to their boss to say they had won the war. A wall was erected made from the skulls, of which only a few remain.

Then to Bubanj memorial Park to see the three fist monument commemorating the 10,000 Jews, Serbs & Roma that were executed on this site by the Nazi's between February 1942 & September 1944. Thought provoking.

Next to the Red Cross concentration camp “12 February” Where thousands of prisoners were either shipped onwards to concentration camps in Germany, Norway or Poland, or taken to the above mentioned hill at Bubanj and shot: their remains being burned and or buried. 

 

The walls around the camp had gun holes every 10m all of them pointing in at the prisoners. Amazing how cruel fellow humans can be.

 

North out of Nis to find a camp near Rsovac. An old yellow road with lots of farms and farmers plowing with their little red tractors. We tucked behind a hedge about 3:40 on an unused looking piece of ground.

A few tractors past us going home but no one stopped.

90km

Camp site

2018-12-05 Day 85 Wed

Serbia here we come! Hadn’t really planned on coming here but here we are. John continued the drive on the small white road, it was a little potholed in places but not for far. We arrived at the border Strezimirotci, one of the 25 towns that were divided when the new Serbian borders were created. After a little chat with the guys I cleared us out of Bulgaria. It is unlike South America in that they don't need forms filled out for the vehicle and signed by the “paper owner”. 

We drove the 100m to Serbia border control and there was a guy with good English (American accent) who translated for the officials. The maps on our vehicle once again proved their worth. It shows we are travelers and have been places. The customs officials have a look in the house door, maybe open a locker, and peer in. Generally they do not enter the house. Any way all through with stamps in the passports. 
 

The road meandered from 800m altitude up to a chilly 1300m. It is coolish and trying unsuccessfully to snow. We stayed on the main road until lake Vlasina at 1150m and then headed north on a yellow road. Tourism is reasonably new in Serbia and this lake area is being made into a tourist attraction for summer and the surrounding mountains in winter. The lake has many picnic areas and it is possible to drive down close to the water. A really delightful spot even more so as there is no one else around….

 
The small villages are neat and tidy with some abandoned housing. However the rivers seem to be the rubbish pits and are quiet disgusting in places,

We cut west to a largish town of Koracevac where our map listed a bank. We found cash, a sim and a few groceries. A dual highway is nearly complete so up this little valley the floor is just roads. New road an orange road and the yellow that we were on. Not much room left for housing.

Back onto a white and north. Green veges are hard to find unless you like cabbage, but I managed to find a cauliflower in Vlasotince. Back on orange East then north on yellow. Looking for a camp. 

The graveyards are amazing with baskets of flowers hanging on the edges of graves. The common recent headstone is black granite with photos of the deceased.
 

This yellow road has little villages listed on the map but in reality it has house dotted all along it. 

We exited on a white and parked behind a shrub in an unloved paddock close to the road. 

171km
 

A quiet night.

Camp site