2019-05-05 Day 220 Sun

 A slow drive down the switch backs then a fast 50km to the border with Georgia at Gogavan – Saarlo. An easy crossing as we already had our car insurance. The road on the Georgia side was very rough. Stopped and chatted to two French motor bikers and forgot to hand over our Armenian SIM with 6GB left… Sorry guys.

We heeded straight for Borjami on orange, yellow with a small section of white road, which would traverse lake Tabatskuri and National park. 

However…. When we exited the sealed road onto a rough track doubts started to crowd in. Does it go through? Will there be snow? With no fixed itinerary or dates it is an easier decision, if we need to back track so be it.

Came across this delightful church which was slowly falling into disrepair. The road at some stage in it's past had been cobbled, but most people chose to make there own tracks, smoother than cobblestones I guess.

We were following in the wheel tracts of a tractor or some bigger machine and arrived at the snow line, a drift across the road. The digger we were following had put gravel on top of the snow so was easy to drive but a little more slippery on account of the angle of incline.

John captured these photos of the wolves chasing one another. I assume one female was playing “hard to get”.

 

We camped just off the road with great views of the high plans and with the lights of Tabatskuri village twinkling in the distance. A vehicle passed in the night.

 220km

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2019-05-04 Day 219 Sat

Back to the main road and the Arni no.1 Cave. This is where the wine making paraphernalia was found and the seeds of grapes. The oldest found wine making site in the world. 4000-3800 cal BC. 

It was only a small cave, and only a fraction had been excavated. An old shoe and basket were also discovered.

We went next door for wine tasting. It is not a winery but a store that collects wines from the local region and further abroad. We found some nice wines and walked away with 4 bottles. It was still raining a little and the flats looked great.

We explored another old graveyard. A group of 4 very drunk young lads wanted to interact but didn’t quiet know how. We had been a bit cautious of them and I had maintained my distance from John thinking that it’d be harder for them to approach both of us without showing their hand. However all was good and they just wanted a photo taken…

Once again some of the head stones were just that, flat pieces of stone lying on the ground some had a cross or date others nothing. Some shaped and engraved. I guess it was what one could afford.

 

We were driving up the west side of lake Gegharkunik in Sevan National par, when lunch called, we found a little track up to a church. The track needed 4x4 but EC just crawled up. The dirt here tends to get very slippery when wet. We had roll ups and had a look at the old chapel. What a great place to camp, overlooking the lake, but we did need to make some more miles. Just as we were getting ready to leave a short wheel base Pajero tried to come up and couldn’t. They parked off the track a little then walked up. They kindly invited/told us us in no uncertain terms to get out and come drink vodka with them. We declined polity. John and one guy walked to their car to move it. One guy again tried to convince me to go drinking…

 

We made some good miles on the red road. John found us a camp on the old road over the Pushkin pass, a tunnel now goes through. A windy rainy night.

 238km

Camp site

2019-05-03 Day 218 Fri

Back through the village and to the Erebuni fortress museum. Arriving at the fortress, we were not allowed in as we had not purchased a ticket at the museum…. so just left. This area to the south of the city is the car market mecca, cars and or bits of cars for sale everywhere one looks.

Parking in Yerevan was a bit of a night mare. We went in one street to far and there was suddenly traffic everywhere. After a few U turns and false alarms found a park on the street.

The cascade which is a set of 300 steps joining the lower and upper parts of the city. On each level it has fountains and art work. Also inside it has escalators and steps for those in need or in the rain.

Below in the square were numerous pieces of artwork from blue kiwi’s (American artist) to fat women – Johns favorite.

We had lunch in the square a bit more western and was uninteresting. I did have a glass of wine with lunch and John a beer.

EC22 was still there where we had left her. It is always a worry when we leave her unattended in a street park never sure what condition she will be in when we return. So far we have not had any issues apart form some graffiti in Argentina (A local crossed off the name Falklands and wrote Maldivia on our map).

Continuing with our day we arrived at Garni fortress The Pagan temple had been reconstructed and gave one the feeling of how huge all these old buildings were. The Palace had fantastic views down the gorge and the hot baths were a bit different to others in that they incorporated the smoke under the floors. 
 

Sadly the orange road were to take on our map did not actually exist so we ended up on very rough tracks finding our way towards last nights camp.

We retraced this section of road 3 times which we do not often do.
 

Although our next point of interest is near the contested border with Azerbaijan, we decided to travel there. It is on the tourist itineraries so thought it safe enough. 
 

The drive down was a mixture of very poorly maintained roads and new high way. 
 

We did not have time for the cave as we arrived about 18:30. Driving up the gorge to Noravank church, where a lot of people were visiting and watching the sun set, we found a lovely peaceful spot but I think with the number of car parks and camping ground it would be overcrowded in summer.

 184km

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2019-05-02 Day 217 Thu

The power poles all seem to be on stilts, not sure if it is prevent their bottoms from rotting or this is after that fact!

The buildings are different here. Some have grass growing on their roofs.

 

As in Ukraine there are these pipes throughout the towns and along the roads feeding gas(?) to the houses.

Many of the cars run on gas. This bus carries it’s gas bottles on the roof! Gas stations are just that here, they sell only gas no petrol or diesel.

The road to Gyumri was slow and rough but once back on the main orange road it was a bit quicker.

Before visiting the cathedral we first dropped into Beeline to buy some internet but had to get a new SIM as the one sold at the border was not meant for internet….. John also purchased a new Redmi 6 phone for A$140

In Vagharshapat we stopped to look at the Ethmiadzin Cathedral which was under repair.

Wow! Impressive buildings here. The cathedral is nested in the complex of the Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin, Impressive buildings for Printing house Treasury house Residency Chancellery and Museum

This cathedral is classed as the oldest in the world built 301 AD when Armenia was the first country to adopt Christianity as a state religion.

This old grave yard with it’s grave stones was quite amazing.

 

It was getting late so headed to a camp on the far side of Yerevan. We found a station with diesel and filled. The guys mate across the road would give us water. Not as easy as crossing a street though, along the high way under and back to the business the guy was very friendly and allowed us to fill our tanks we gave him a kangaroo….

Onward to camp which we found easily overlooking Azat Reservoir. Space enough for hundreds of campers!!

211km
 

Camp site

2019-05-01 Day 216 Wed

We made it! The plan was to cross into Georgia on 1^st May and a 30km drive saw us at the border.

 

Heart wrenchingly, after we had cleared EC out and had been told by the guy that Georgia didn’t like any sort of tablet etc etc, I had to leave my home in Johns capable hands and walk. I should of packed a lunch. I got stamped out of Turkey then walked down a corridor going through glass doors feeling like Maxwell Smart!!. Got to the other end and no one there - so hollered. One guy came out of duty free and just waved me to the door down another short corridor. I exited and looked through the gates at John waiting half way. Another guy arrived and checked my passport and I just stood around waiting. 

I did not like the feeling of being away from my home. I had the clothes I stood up in and my passport.

John duly arrived and we drove the 50m to the Georgia entry. This crossing had been closed between 1995-2015 but now has huge infrastructure setup to deal with a bus loads of people. We were the only ones, apart from the trucks.

The Georgia half was the same - I then walked down more corridor past the x-ray machines. A customs official came up to me and asked for my luggage and I indicated it was in the car. She asked me to get it and I explained it was not in a bag but in draws as this had been my home for 2 years. She was quite astounded by this, She had good English and I told her where we’d been and where we were going. I sat inside waiting for John.

Once he was through we parked at the insurance booth. For the first time we needed to buy insurance - our green card does not cover us here. We were classed as a truck and it cost 60GEL - I first thought A$120 but I’d got my wires crossed and it was only A$30 - A$2 a day. We had argued in vane to get through as a special vehicle but no go.

Georgia here we were.

Next to the Armenian border via Akhalkalaki to buy a SIM card and get some currency.

Immediate thoughts of Georgia are bit like Ukraine - a step back in time. Old equipment but pretty groovy tracked tractors, Lots of fallen down buildings or in disrepair but very friendly folk.

The currency and phone was easy. We asked the lady from the SIM shop where to eat and she indicated a place over the road.

What a surprise! Once downstairs it was very clean and fancy. I ordered while John went back to get our computers.

 Two Georgian plates - one was big dumplings - the other a fried pork and vegie combo and two soda waters which came in 400ml bottles. Both meals were nice but we won’t need dinner! 19GEL about A$10

On towards Armenia - only 40kms but the road was only sealed around the potholes so very slow going. John got into 4^th once and regretted it. Every time you think there is a good section of road a pothole jumps out under both wheels!

Finally at the border. I was encouraged once again to depart and walk. A guy flicked through every page of my passport then took me inside to another couple of guys in a booth. They also flicked though my passport asked what was the make of the car them stamped me out. We were out of Georgia after about 5 hours.

Onto Armenia. I had to leave John again here, but joined him at customs. The guy had a quick look inside and then wanted a locker open. He found the muesli, which we explained what it was, and then another packet. Another guy came and I asked what they were looking for. Pills - so I went to the cab and got out my Chilean nuerophen which I did not like. He looked and handed it back. All good. We were asked to park and go inside to customs. We were asked to pay customs clearance for vehicle and an environmental tax.

 About 9000AMD -

for which neither of our cards would work and reluctant to pay with our US$ - we paid with Georgian GEL. Cost about A$30. Then we had to go and buy Insurance - another $A15. The insurance guy offered to sell us a SIM with 4GB - seemed expensive (A$12) but would give us data immediately as we would not pass a town before camp. I noticed back in the car that the message said I had only 500MB. Done for!! However on the up side it enabled me to apply for our Azerbiajan visa.

We turned west towards a lake and national park. At the village of Tavshut we saw one of the neat tractors so stopped to talk to the young men with it. John had a good look at it which surprised the locals. While chatting, the herd of cows came home and just walked through the building into the courtyard and their corral for the night.

The two guys 20 and 22 year olds took us on a walk to this little chapel then they hopped in their new tractor and we followed them to a small dam close by. Then onto another older chapel which had this ring of large stones inside….. Maybe the building was built over the stones??

Onwards to the lake Arpi and Lake Arpi National Park. The roads are slow with lots of potholes.

The Armenians are very inventive with their fences!

Many great old cemeteries all with their own style of head stone.

A guy was fishing at the lake. I spoke to him asking if we could camp here. He said he was not local but should be OK. He was catching fish about 10 -15cm long.

134km

Camp site