2019-06-02 Day 248 Sun

We arrived at the border town and exchanged most of our Iranian Rial to the Turkmenistan Manat at the official rate getting about 130 for our 1500,000. I bought some frozen chicken pieces and some yogurt. Not feeling apprehensive about this crossing which is great. 

 

Still no traffic around. We crossed out of Iran with no hassles. We were not separated. A huge complex with a large building straddling the 6 lanes of roads but nobody. We got ushered upstairs by the guard, passed many empty offices to the man who stamps the carnet de passage. This guy then took us down stairs on the other side of the roads then back to the original door. Handed in our passports to another guy we took a seat and waited. It was not long before we were called up and we were free to go.

John went around a fence to go and retrieve our vehicle, pick me up and out the gate into Turkmenistan. We were told to park near a red station wagon then walked back to the gate to show our passports. Another camper arrived with some French couple on their way south. Sadly did not get to talk much as we were at passport control and on either side of the building. 
 

Next into the building to pay taxes, and to pay for the visa. We had understood, from the consulate in Ankara, that the cost would be about US$250. We waited for the bank to open with the guards ringing the bell repeatedly but no answer. Boss man came out yelled at one of the junior guards and he disappeared through another door and retrieved the banker lady for us.

During this time I asked the guards if I could take my scarf off. Yes. Great nice to be free.

Paid the US$110 for visa and another US$24 for tax. 
 

All good. Then we were separated. I did not have a book or phone so after I was cleared in I sat in the garden. I was not allowed to find John. It felt like about 45 mins. A long time. I busied myself with exploring the garden and killing caterpillars on one of the rose bushes. The roses were looking very healthy and were about to burst into bloom.

EC finally appeared over the pits and the guard allowed me to go to it. John had been doing paperwork from office to office and had to pay US$200 in taxes included the change of US$9 which became a tip. The guys did not know if tomorrow the roads would be closed for the world cycle day and you need to ask the president. Supposedly on the news tonight everyone will know. However the border officials have all been asked to leave Ashkabat by 0600hrs.

We waited while they had lunch then had our cursory inspection. Neither John or I had declared money so John chased that down, and declared it and took a photo of the paperwork. Had still not seen any other car although a bus did arrive spilling out 10 passengers and their black garbage bags of items.

It all took about 3 hours even with the lunch break. 
 

Our first “Stan” with a 5 day transit visa. 
 

Now onto the road into Ashkabat capitol of Turkmenistan. Still no traffic. We looked down over the uniform city. Most of it a formation white color white marble and further away a sea of green roofs.

Onto a 6 lane divided road into the city still no traffic. So neat clean and quiet. What a complete difference to Iran which bustled busily somehow noisily and dirty. The contrast was amazing, quiet serene, streets lined with trees, parks and a little well behaved traffic.

We drove around a bit taking photos of monuments, Down the main drag each roundabout had it’s own big piece of artwork.

We parked in the shade I change out of my longs into a cool dress and John into shorts. We then had a bite to eat. A guy helped us to order and then took us to a table in among the trees. A kind off big flat pie with lamb mince filling quite nice and a bottle of sparkling water (which doubled the price of the meal). 
 

Finally found a place to buy a SIM but they wanted US$30 for SIM and 10GB. We declined.

We drove north.

For all that we had heard about the bad road so far it was not too bad. It became desert like very quickly and hot - about 41℃. The river marked on the map actually had lots of water so turned off on a small road which ran parallel to it and then left the road in a swale (after dropping tire pressure) and drove through the sand to the river. EC was just visible from the road. 

194km
 

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2019-06 01 Day 247 Sat

A mid morning departure. Down the hill then we turned to the east again to have a look at a gorge. Drove to the village and turned around. The landscape here is very attractive and interesting.

 

 

 The little village had it's own milk tanker!!

We just got passed the point where we had entered the road when a vehicle overtook. A few corners later and outside a building he waved us down at a military roadblock setup just for us. They asked us to park across the road in their entrance. Only a short stop here. The two young militar one of which was the only guy with english, both looked at me in the eyes and spoke to me. I was quiet surprised. John had lots of jokes with them while waiting for our passports to be checked. All good and off we went.

Back on the main road we turned south and drove into Quchen to buy some food. We stopped just in the city limits and there were half a dozen different shops selling dried fruit, yogurt, cheeses etc. Bought some raisins, apricots, walnuts and almonds in their shell. A young lady befriended us, practicing her english. She mostly talked to John. She wanted us to go and have an ice cream. She kept asking people where to go or where was a restaurant open ( being Ramadan). So we walked with her, but she went too far so we asked her to wait there and we’d go get the car, which we did. John had also noticed a guy in a car watching us on the street who wold not respond to his greetings. This time bringing the backpack with our passports, we continued with our new friend.

Finally she was told the shop behind us. It was locked, but opened for us. We were ushered in and downstairs where we chatted with her and the proprietor. We had a huge helping of ice cream each. Finally it was time to leave. Upstairs where she paid the proprietor said something about the guys on the street who then came to the door. It was unlocked for them and our friend tried to push past them unsuccessfully. They said "police".

A police raid on an ice cream shop! Not sure if they were following us or her. They looked at our passports and said we could go but we said no we’d wait for our friend. She did not have ID on her. The proprietor was very worried and said he may be shut down; I guess not licensed to serve food during Ramadan. Finally she left and us with her. But outside the door when I asked was she OK, she said no and turned around and went back to argue with the cops. She and the cops asked us to leave.  We are still puzzled.

 Takes two people to milk a sheep!!

We found a place to change the oil and finter in our vehicle. Also we were able to have the vehicle wached thoroughly (important because it is illegal to have a dirty car in Turmenistan). Finally we left town heading for the border. A very busy road but once we turned off to Bajgiran there was no traffic. 

Camped about 20km’s south of the border on the old abandoned highway. A lovely camp and only one motor-bike passed us.

 185km

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2019-05-31 Day 246 Fri

Spent some time catching up with photos then headed on out. The terrain was different here. 

It started out hilly and rocky then became green with lots of goat and sheep herds, then rice farms. 

 

Late in the afternoon we noticed fenced in places where people were siting on stools and the goats were bought into them. We thought maybe market day. Buying of goats.

Turning away from Dargaz and the border we headed inland for the mountains and a camp.

We stopped to take photos of the wonderful colors of the yellow crop with the back drop of black clouds and rainbows. A car stopped and asked us what we were photographing . I just pointed at the view and rainbow. I don’t think he saw the beauty of it. Probably drives past it every day…

 

Our sealed road stopped and we continued on a wet, but properly formed gravel road. Not just a muddy track, though we did end up on one to camp beside beehives. Another wonderfully quiet camp.

Iran seems to be a tiring place to travel. But does have some beautiful country side. The towns though keep us very busy.

We seem worn out all the time.

238km

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2019-05-30 Day 245 Thu

A much needed soothing photo to start the day!

At 4am the alarm woke us. Up out of bed and ready for the conference call. JY joined form tassie but Chris and JGB were unavailable. 
 

John noticed a mess in his locker, the liquid clothes washing soap had leaked. What a mess. We saved what we could out of the plastic box and sieved it back into it’s container. The cloth items that were soaked in it, I did not wash out, but left to use in the next wash. After cleaning up and having breakfast we headed back down the track. I stopped to photograph some flowers. When we reached the main road we had a welcoming party two cars. The police car with 4 uniformed cops and the other plain car with 4 plain clothes military guys……

They wanted to see passports and camera. The cop looked at the photos on camera and was OK with them but the military guy was not - and he deleted 2 photos off the camera taken looking out over the city. There is a military factory down the bottom of the hill where we were duly led.

John stayed outside the compound with the passports and I went inside with camera and laptop. I was given biscuits then left alone. I sent a quick message to family and my location just in case...After 10 minutes I went outside to see where John was. 
 

We were both ushered back to the room with a military personnel. We were obviously waiting for someone, we were given a plate of sealed bickies and a can of soft drink which neither of us touched.

Chris sent me a message so I asked if I could call my son. No problems - I went outside and chatted to him and was ushered back inside still on the phone.

We explained to the guy with English that we needed to get to the Turkish embassy that that is why we were in this town. They let us go, while they kept my laptop and camera. 
 

We did not have much success at the consulate as they do not have an official translator and john was not allowed to sign a Turkish document without it being translated and having the translators stamp and signature even though it was a direct copy of one he had already signed but with a different date…… Bureaucracy!!!

The young lady was very helpful but could only suggest we get it in English - translate it to Persian sign it with a notary, then consulate can stamp it and in turkey have it translated into Turkish…….. Lots of work, or try another consulate maybe in Uzbekistan.

Back to our “friends“ at the military “factory” . Here we were delivered a lunch of chicken and rice, and tea.

John was delayed coming to the room and the guy who had good English asked me some questions but once John arrived I was ignored to the point of being spoken over. He said he was trying to speed the process for us. He made several calls to ask for out stuff to be returned. Back at the vehicle he rang our visa through to someone and asked if first time in Iran we both replied yes. He turned to me and asked again I replied yes then he proceeded carefully to say that some one with my name had been here in 2004 and 2016. I denied again. I cant imagine there are many people with my name. Anyway it was all cleared up, someone with a name similar to mine…

He had another appointment so left, finally we received our laptop and camera back and left.

We let family know all was well.

It was now late afternoon. We tried hard to get an oil change but no one had a filter. Tried also to buy dried fruit but failed there as well.

We headed out on a yellow road that headed east towards the border of Turkmenistan finding a lovely camp overlooking a dam and a neat cliff face. 

 A relaxing place to de-stress.

 101km

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2019-05-29 Day 244 wed

  Another beautiful morning

 

Off to work!

A big days drive to get to Mashhad. We noticed a castle on the map, near Esfarayen, so dropped in to see it. A castle built from mud bricks. A lot of reconstruction has been done to it. Nice to see what it once looked like. A big area encompassed by the walls, about 5 acres.

We took a yellow short cut so missed Sabzevar. The road was good and very quiet. A good short cut.

 

Stopped to get fuel and noticed another 10,000km’s had clicked over. 170,000km - time for a service.

We have been keeping the fuel tank above the half way mark as some stations will not sell us diesel. One should have a card to self-serve on the pumps and we of course do not own such a card.










 We forgot to fill the cooking bottle with petrol so stopped at the last gas station before our camp. It was shut down. As we had pulled over and were pondering this a car stopped beside us and a lady got out to chat. Her English was quiet good. In the end John and her partner left to go get petrol. 
 

This lady at 31 lived with her 7 year old child, and the guy in the car was her friend of 4 years. She was a professional and worked in foreign exchange. She gave me a few more insights into the lives of the less devout Iranian.

Pictures like these are in every town no matter how small. I assume people lost in the past wars.








Up the hill past Khalai to the south-west of Maashad, to find lots of tracks and cars. People out enjoying the sights. We found a track up past a car and onto the top of the hill with great views out over the city.

A nice quiet evening and early night.

 390km

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