We arrived at the border town and exchanged most of
our Iranian Rial to the Turkmenistan Manat at the official rate getting about 130 for our 1500,000. I bought some frozen chicken
pieces and some yogurt. Not
feeling apprehensive about this crossing which is great.
Still
no traffic around. We crossed out of Iran with no hassles. We were
not separated. A huge complex with a large building straddling the 6
lanes of roads but nobody. We got ushered upstairs by the guard,
passed many empty offices to the man who stamps the carnet de
passage. This guy then took us down stairs on the other side of the
roads then back to the original door. Handed in our passports to
another guy we took a seat and waited. It was not long before we were
called up and we were free to go.
John
went around a fence to go and retrieve our vehicle, pick me up and
out the gate into Turkmenistan. We were told to park near a red
station wagon then walked back to the gate to show our passports.
Another camper arrived with some French couple on their way south.
Sadly did not get to talk much as we were at passport control and on
either side of the building. 
Next
into the building to pay taxes, and to pay for the visa. We had
understood, from the consulate in Ankara, that the cost would be
about US$250. We waited for the bank to open with the guards ringing
the bell repeatedly but no answer. Boss man came out yelled at one of the junior guards
and he disappeared through another door and retrieved the banker lady
for us.
During
this time I asked the guards if I could take my scarf off. Yes. Great
nice to be free.
Paid
the US$110 for visa and another US$24 for tax.
All
good. Then we were separated. I did not have a book or phone so after
I was cleared in I sat in the garden. I was not allowed to find
John. It felt like about 45 mins. A long time. I busied myself with
exploring the garden and killing caterpillars on one of the rose
bushes. The roses were looking very healthy and were about to burst
into bloom.
EC
finally appeared over the pits and the guard allowed me to go to it. John
had been doing paperwork from office to office and had to pay US$200
in taxes included the change of US$9 which became a tip. The guys did
not know if tomorrow the roads would be closed for the world cycle
day and you need to ask the president. Supposedly on the news tonight
everyone will know. However the border officials have all been asked to leave Ashkabat
by 0600hrs.
We
waited while they had lunch then had our cursory inspection. Neither
John or I had declared money so John chased that down, and declared
it and took a photo of the paperwork. Had still not seen any other
car although a bus did arrive spilling out 10 passengers and their
black garbage bags of items.
It
all took about 3 hours even with the lunch break.
Our
first “Stan” with a 5 day transit visa.
Now
onto the road into Ashkabat capitol of Turkmenistan. Still no
traffic. We looked down over the uniform city. Most of it a
formation white color white marble and further away a sea of green
roofs.
Onto
a 6 lane divided road into the city still no traffic. So neat clean
and quiet. What a complete difference to Iran which bustled busily
somehow noisily and dirty. The contrast was amazing, quiet serene,
streets lined with trees, parks and a little well behaved traffic.
We
drove around a bit taking photos of monuments, Down the main drag
each roundabout had it’s own big piece of artwork.
We
parked in the shade I change out of my longs into a cool dress and
John into shorts. We then had a bite to eat. A guy helped us to order
and then took us to a table in among the trees. A kind off big flat
pie with lamb mince filling quite nice and a bottle of sparkling
water (which doubled the price of the meal).
Finally
found a place to buy a SIM but they wanted US$30 for SIM and 10GB. We declined.
We
drove north.
For
all that we had heard about the bad road so far it was not too bad. It
became desert like very quickly and hot - about
41℃. The river marked on the map actually had lots of water so
turned off on a small road which ran parallel to it and then left the
road in a swale (after dropping tire pressure) and drove through the
sand to the river. EC was just visible from the road.
194km
194km