Showing posts with label Chile. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chile. Show all posts

5★ Chile, Caleta La Cichara 2017-06-25

We were heading north along the Pacific coast on a sealed road.  The road threaded a thin strip of land with the ocean on our left and to our right was a very steep slope of scree topped by a cliff of some 800m. A peninsula thrust out into the ocean, blocking passage so a tunnel had been constructed to under-come the impasse. Our map showed a minor road that passed up over the peninsula, probably the old road. We hoped for a camp on the old road but were concerned that the location would be blocked or dangerous due to the steady stream of rocks moving down the scree. To our astonishment the old road was maintained free and clear (possibly as a backup) and we camped above the tunnel in the ridge, safe from rockfalls. There was an abandoned car body and a spectacular view. map

5★ Chile CuadrillaDiez 2017-06-18

We had been traveling the Atacama desert for a couple of days and heading east towards a remote pass into Argentina. As the road began up a long slow incline we were set on edge by a number of burnt out car bodies. One front left wheel had been driven to destruction (not just the tyre, the wheel). We wondered if these were stolen cars used in drug running. We continued. The mountains started and then snow in the desert. Fortunately a big machine had cleared the snow and we continued - until we got to the point where the big machine had given up. We backtracked a little and climbed a little side track to an airy knoll at 3620m altitude, with 360° views. The altitude sickness set in later that evening. map

5★ Chile, El Totoral 2017-06-14

Still traveling North, but we had managed to escape Ruta 5 onto a minor road that bumped along the Pacific coast. We had passed a number of relatively informal gatherings of week-enders with a few permanent residents. The road degraded further to a sandy track amongst the rocky outcrops, but a spattering of very basic shacks persisted, each tucked into a isolated spot. Clearly these people valued the very same kind of isolation that we seek - and we did not wish to intrude. We finally found our little spot for the night, amongst a spectacularly craggy coastline, endorsed by the friendly wave of a local. map

5★ Chile, El Espino 2017-06-06

We were driving north along a desert valley and there was a very minor road zig-zagging up the range on our right. We gained 600m altitude up the switchbacks and were beginning to look for a place with a westerly view back over the valley, when we noticed a man approaching us out of the desert. We did not really want to talk with him because we were concerned he would move us on. He was a pretty scruffy lean character, with lanky hair, not a lot of teeth, and bright eyes. After some discussion in my very broken Spanish he became quite animated and was yabbering on at a great rate - and almost entirely unintelligible. I came to understand that he lived nearby and he knew of a wonderful spot for us to camp. He indicated a hill top to the east and provided instructions of how to get there. The light was fading fast as we navigated the increasingly marginal track. The position was truly spectacular with 360° views including a moon-rise to the east over the boarder with Peru. As the sun set I saw for the first time in my life the fabled green flash. As we departed the next morning I spied a man standing in a doorway of a small hut some distance off. We exchanged a wave. map

5★ Chile Vocan Ollague 2017-06-29

We asked the policeman at Ollague township if it was OK to drive up yonder Volcano. He simply shrugged in dismissal of such an odd question. So we began from the plain at 3720m altitude and picked our way up the unmaintained, rock strewn track up the western flank of Volcan Ollague. We camped at 5100m altitude on a tiny offshoot at the end of a hairpin bend on a ridge - so as to avoid any boulders the Volcan might send hurtling down. After a breathless night we continued our drive up to 5350m until the rockfalls were too thick - and we walked. A further 200m vertical and return in 2hrs. Awesome! map

★★★★★ camps

One of the great delights in traveling the way we do is the prospect spending our evenings and mornings in spectacular locations. The things that really make a location special for us include a superb view, a sense of isolation, exposure, extremes in geography or weather, and a cheeky position (internet access is a bonus). We usually start looking for a camp from 2-3 hours before dusk, and sometimes we end up camping in the dark (makes for an interesting sunrise). I select a single photo to try and capture the essence of each camp. There is also a map

Our most wonderful camps in South America include ....

Chile, Volcan Lliama 2017-05-23
Chile, Pichidangul 2017-06-05
Chile, El Espino 2017-06-06
Chile, El Totoral 2017-06-14
Chile, CuadrillaDiez 2017-06-18
Chile, Caleta La Cichara 2017-06-25
Chile, Vocan Ollague 2017-06-29
Bolivia, Laguna Pastos Grandes 2017-07-01
Peru, Carpapata 2017-08-05
Peru, Chinchaycocha 2017-08-07
Peru, Surasaca 2017-08-08
Peru, Punta Olimpica 2017-09-25
Peru, 2017-10-01
Bolivia, 2017-11-07
Uruguay, San Gregorio De Polanco 2017-12-22
Argentina, Priest Road 2018-01-02
Argentina, Las Vegas 2018-01-08
Argentina, Parque Provinvial Laguan Daimante 2018-01-09
Argentina, Parque Provinvial Laguan Daimante 2018-01-10
Argentina, El Tromen 2018-01-13
Argentina, Punta Ninfas Lighthouse 2018-03-06
Argentina, Cabo San Pablo 2018-04-11
Argentina, Tolombon 2018-05-09
Argentina, El Quenoal 2018-01-13























5★ Chile, Pichidangul 2017-06-05

We were traveling North on Chilli's main highway Ruta 5 - not our ideal. We exited into the town of Pichidangul jammed between Ruta 5 and the Pacific ocean in search of a camp. Before we even got thru town we were hailed by a local and invited back to her home so that her Canadian partner could interrogate us about our travels on her behalf. We found the camp just a kilometer out of town in close proximity to the crash of the Pacific. Astonishing that the whole area was used as the informal rubbish dump for the town. Somehow the locals did not appreciate the beauty on their own doorstep. map

5★ Chile, Volcan Lliama 2017-05-23.

We departed Temuco very late after having the vehicle serviced and went in search of a camp in fading light. The road became narrow, the night became black, the trees thick, and then there was snow - and still no camp. Finally we came to a widening of the road, and small car park and tourist sign. As our head-lights swept over the terrain the shapes seemed fantastic. I had alway understood lava to be smooth, black, hard stuff; but the morning revealed that we we camped on the extreme extent of a lava flow with a clear view to the snow capped volcano. The lava was of the most fantastically rough shapes and the tourist sign indicated that the Volcan Llaima was on orange alert. map

2018-04-29 Day 333 Sun


Again a windy morning (very) and about 3℃. John was still in bed at 8am, wonders will never cease. Had breaky and braced ourselves for the 1.5km walk to the crater. Walking there was OK with a tail wind. Not too cold but I had quite a few layers on.

The crater was really interesting, had not completely filled in.

The walk back was difficult with the head wind. At times making very little progress. A lovely walk non the less. Would have been cold if it was much longer.

The area was covered in very rough chunks of larva, it had not smoothed off in the wind at all over the millenniums.

We drove out of the park and headed for the border crossing. I was a bit concerned as Lars kept telling me he was always searched and had his bits of jewelery making wood confiscated. At odds with our experience.

All the clearing is done on the Argentina side and as we put our passports on the Argentinian desk the power went out! So back to vehicle to heat soup for lunch. Half way through the power came on so we went back inside. All went smoothly although the Aduana guy was a bit unsure on the form filling….. Any way, that part done back to vehicle for some soup then into the inspection bay. Handed the guy our slip of paper indicating with stamps that we had completed all requirements and he waved us through with “happy travels”.

Dropped into Lago Azul It was in an old crater but the wind!!! John had troubles standing to take a panorama and ended up huddled in a little cave to take it. The wind was whipping the water off the surface. Was great to watch.
Dropped into Rio Gallegos for a quick fill and had to use cash; neither card worked came up with pin pad error. So spent the next 30 minutes driving around banks until one gave me money.
Camped on a yellow road just north of the river. We drove down to a Estancia and realised the road we wanted was a farm track to the river so back up the hill to a quarry we had seen on the way down. Perched above the quarry on the grass.



A full moon tonight.

2018-04-28 Day 332 Sat


EC started OK but the belt noise was very annoying. John changed out the batteries and the new ones fitted nicely. We then lifted the cab and tightened the fan belt.. Next we covered the solar panels and removed the house batteries to top them, and then reinstaled them.
A mornings works. We were keen to get going so after a quick cup of soup and bread we said our good byes and headed north – At Last. There was still snow on the hills as we let Punta Arenas.

We decided to go into the Pali Aike NP. It would be our last Chilean park for a while. (For ever?) The ranger was friendly but had no English. Understood a lot of what was said though.

Drove on into the park to Lake Ana had a look but did not walk to it. The wind was strong and temperature only 5℃.

Drove back around the other side of the park and walked into the old volcano crater. Really interesting lots of lichen growing on the melted stone walls. Maybe the larva was bubbling and splashed on the walls?


Back to camp site which had very well sheltered picnic tables. A cosy night.

2018-04-27 Day 331 Fri


Vehicle not ready at midday so we wondered for lunch and a bank. Finally got money and had some very good tomato soup and coffee for lunch. Back to Innata to collect our bags and then ubered back to Kaufmann arriving at 4pm.

Nicolas said he had to jump the truck at lunch time to test it. He convinced us we needed batteries so when we rolled out of there shortly before 6pm. We headed close by to the “duty free” section of town. The fan belt was making a horrendous noise needs tightening some. There we finally found some batteries similar size and performance and cheap AU$180 each. Back to Jacquie’s on dark.

2018-04-26 Day 330 Thu


John (and I ) slept in woke when we should be leaving for service .

A cold snowy morning only 2℃. Tried to start EC but she wouldn’t start. There is no pre-heating light on dash. The morning got colder. Lars and Liam left and Nicolas from Kaufman came out. We jump started EC. Strange that she did not start for I had run her for 30min yesterday for Lars’s cake.

Arrived Kaufmann about midday and then took an uber into Hostel Innata and sat around with Internet. A Cold uninspiring day. Had a chuck of olive bread for a late lunch.

Went to Kaufmann about 5pm only to find out would not be finished until tomorrow midday. They had trouble getting the water hose off. We packed a bag and ubered back to Innata where we checked in for the night. Had a shower and got into nicer clothes. Were recommended a restaurant near by.

Good food. We shared an entree of Guanaco which was good meat, not sure why they are not farmed apart from the need of a deer fence! The meals were the best we have had in South America. A late night.

2018-04-25 Day 329 Wed


Lars picked me up about 10am and we went shopping for the food and wood for a BBQ tonight. A get together say thanks to Jacqui and Ingrid and to welcome John home. A couple chunks of meat and some chicken wings. Lars was buying for his trip so I did a big buy up too. Save time later.

I reinstalled the transfer pump so we could put diesel in the auxiliary fuel tank if required.

Jacqui took me to the airport to pick John up. Nice seeing him again.

Lars started cooking and came back and told us a stray dog had stolen his hunk of beef….. So down to steak and marinated chicken wings with salads and wine. A nice evening standing by a fire that Jacqui had supplied the wood for.

2018-04-24 Day 328 Tue


Jacqui drove Ingrid and I into town to see if we could find a pump. We found one that may do but can't run dry so left it.

Lars came by around 6pm, I paid for the earrings that he’d changed for me and got another pair as well that he had made in the meantime. We went into town for dinner at La Luna. I had the fish with sea food sauce. A nice evening.

2018-04-23 Day 327 Mon


Asked Jacqui to get some old hose and we tried to siphon the secondary diesel tank was not to be. So took the transfer hose off the main diesel tank and pulled it back through it's ties and drained it into a black box. As I had filled leaving Kaufmann the other day I could only fit a little in the main tank so put the rest in Jacqui's Ute. We both had such cold hands we went up to Jacqui and Ingrid's house for lunch and a defrost. I had wet trousers so climbed into a pair of Jacqui's jeans while mine were put on the heater to dry.
Jacqui did a lot of work on her little house and made a lot of the furniture. She has a lovely view through their front window.

Back down to EC we struggled to get the pump off but finally managed it.

2018-04-22 Day 326 Sun


Woke about 4am and re-lit the fires. Then snuck back into bed. Woke again late with the truck parked at the gate and frost covering all the ground. Very pretty.

The farm hand came and told us time to go. We drove to the yards where it was all underway. Augusto is doing the tallying and paperwork of which he hasn’t done before.

I help encourage the sheep up the ramp. Warm work which was good. A beautiful sunny day, no wind. After 3 hours just before the 3rd triple deck truck was finished we had a very short light shower then the sun came out. I will be sore tomorrow.

Back to the house for a quick lunch and clean up.

Within 6kms we had a stone fracture and all we could find was a jack no handle and no brace. Augusto started to walk back to Estancia. Jacqui walked up the hill to find phone service and I sat in the car. A ute came by which I stopped and encouraged him to find his gear – he needed to unload back seat. Found a brace which did not fit our or his ute and then he would not get the other tools out. Jacqui who just returned asked him to pick Augusto up and take him to the Estancia.
Finally another ute came past with a friendly farmer. He had the wheel changed in ten minutes and was off.  He had half a sheep carcass on back seat!!!
We drove back to the Estancia and found Augusto just starting on the drive way. No the first ute didn’t pick him up just said only another 500m.
By now it is 4:30 We got home about 10:30 for some reason we were on the ferry for close to an hour!!! Jacquie’s parents had a nice feast for us all. We all sat down to a very late dinner. King crab and mussels followed by Ingrid's meat stew. Very nice feast. A long day.
Went and got my hotty to fill at the house. Wearily climbed into a very cold bed.

2018-04-21 Day 325 Sat




Was ready at 9am for the trip to the Estancia on Terra Del Fugo. Jacqui asked me to go to her mums house which I did and we all waited. Her cousin, Augostino had slept in and would be late. Went back to EC and fetch my pillow. Jacqui and I had a quick trip to supermarket to buy some water and biscuits for the trip. Finally left about 10:30. While awaiting the ferry we bought a sandwich each - and they were huge. We all only ate half then got the rest wrapped. 157km
We drove down the middle of the island so a new road for me. 126km Then across east towards the Argentine border 31km. Then about another 30km on a smaller dirt track to the Estancia Frontira.

Unloaded our stuff into the nice warm house both the kitchen and other fire were burning. Went for a wonder around. Quite pretty but cold.

The largest stock of  fire wood I have seen since Puff's stack at Milawa!

This is supposedly a weed from NZ that is taking over Southern Patagonia  and has no food value for stock.