2019-01-13 Day 124 Sun

Back to Croatia, border crossing fast and easy. We had a great view looking down on Dubrovnik from Srd Hill top of cable car.

Then down to a car park in Dubrovnik. We bought tickets about A$25 each and walked the old town wall. Fascinating and in such great repair. took us a couple of hours to wonder the 2 km.

 

 

Next a quick walk to Fort Lovrijenac which is featured in Game of Thrones and the Black water battle.

We escaped Dubrovnik and john found us a very secluded camp 2km down a track in between rocks and olive trees. Quite a good track so maybe a house at the end. We did think of going down to ask but it would have taken a while.

A quiet night.

55km

Camp site

2019-01-12 Day 123 Sat

Woke to -9℃ on the gauge. The sun rose without being shy and hiding behind clouds, a beautiful day. First real sun in weeks!! although we did had a few hours yesterday. Spoke to Muff and Puff in Melbourne they are off on their trip to Africa and a cruise back on QEII. 
 

We made an easy boarder crossing from Montenegro back into Bosnia and John drove us into Trebinje where we had a look at the Perovica Bridge. It was built in the 15 century and was moved in the 1980’s when the hydroelectric dam was put in. Stone by stone. When we got back to EC we realized that the solar panels were pumping some power in maybe today we can start equalizing the batteries.
 

I then navigated up the hill to the Serbian Orthodox Monastary, only 20 years old but the fresco’s are already peeling.

Then we sat a little ways down the hill with the nose down and the solar panels aimed at the sun. We sat there for over an hour and had one hour at 16v so hopefully some good.

Next to the supermarket to spend our remaining Bosnian money. I found an enamel pot with no handles that will fill the camp oven. Have been looking for a while now… Spent all but a few Marks.

I drove us towards Croatia and John picked a superb camp on an old road, looking over Croatia and the Adriatic sea.
 

It was only 14:30 so we left all electrics off to put a higher voltage into the batteries although didn’t get to 16v as the sun was low in the sky. 

The rubber parts that had been soaking in silicon spray in a sealed bag seem to be more flexible. They initially got very soft and were a concern but  have become less soft maybe the propellant heated them??

We put the water pump back together and cannot blow back thru the pump, so that is a definite improvement. All of the plumbing is frozen so could not check the pump with water - maybe tomorrow.

I put the two new bulbs in the number plate light.

When we got inside I just had to check the new pan would work so the result a chocolate cake that looks pretty good for first try.

75km

Camp site

2019-01-10 Day 121 Thu

We did a big catch up of photos and blog and even ate lunch before we left camp. The snow was forming these neat scarves on the rails.

Retraced out steps to Gorazde where John went back to the supermarket and bought 2 more Merlot and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Best AU$5 bottle of wine he has had in ages.

Followed the Drina River south to Foca the road was cleared of snow and what was left on the road was slush.

Just south of Foca we left the main route and crossed to the east side of the Drina and continued south. The road was still orange but did not have as much traffic and, although plowed, there was still a few inches of snow on the road. About half way to the Montenegro border (10km) the road became quite slippery we traveled quite slowly. The road had only been cleared of snow to one vehicle width so had to be weary of oncoming cars. We only saw 3 cars in total.

Scepan border crossing. Leaving Bosnia was quick and easy we then crossed the Tara River into Montenegro. The Police were quick and friendly and the customs were not overly interested. Another country. The border crossing is not far from where the Tara and Piva rivers join to become the Drina.

It was now after 16:00 and we were slowly loosing light. The road had two lanes open and was not slippery, Drove through a few tunnels above the Piva river then through a tunnel onto a bridge and immediately into a tunnel again. Another 5 tunnels and we found a flat area at the intersection of the hydro-electric road that was nicely cleared. Lots of cars and buses came past over the next few hours probably about 30 vehicles not sure where they came from or going too.

Chris’s birthday but cannot ring him tonight as we do not have a Montenegro SIM yet. But we did celebrate with roast pork leg in the camp oven on the stove top, no crackling but was great all the same. 

119km
 

Camp site

2019-01-09 Day 120 Wed

We had failed to get the batteries equalized. Oh well - next time. We moved on from Olivers place around 10:00am. It had been a convenient and welcoming place to stay. 

Regardless of seasons the chores continue

We took a yellow road east; it had been plowed, and a few cars had used it. The snow was nice and cold so not slippery. When we got to the next yellow road we were going to turn left but such a well used road we turned right for another yellow loop. 

We ended up passing the Nordic centre and then arrived at Olympic mountain (1984). Stopping we snapped a few photos and continued. Seeing the ski slope we understood why there was so much traffic on the road.

At the turn off no-one else had driven it so we asked a parking officer. Yep all good. So off we went on a virgin snow road. It was a magical drive all the firs drooping with the weight of the snow, no other cars just beautiful. The only vehicle we passed on the 20 km drive was the snow clearing tractor on the way back up. We finally got back onto orange and found a town to fill with diesel.

 
Some more km on the orange until that came to an end. The snow plow driver sadly informed us that the white road was closed - it looked magnificent on the map. Turned onto the yellow alternative and went up and over 34km. Another quiet drive, it wasn’t till we were over half way that we met another car. There were 16 switchbacks in total going up the hill.

Stopped overlooking the town of Gorazde and had lunch in the company of a tank, and 2 anti-aircraft guns

In Gorazde we did a quick shop. When John got out of the car a lady asked him for food. She had a man and a 5 year old across the road. We bought some banana’s bread and yogurt for them. They seem to be local and had an old van.

The rest of the way to Visegrad followed the magnificent Drina river and we drove through tunnel after tunnel, The poor witch often did not have time to connect to satellites before we were back underground.

We walked across the Ottoman bridge at Visegrad. Then continued back along the opposite side of the river and parked between the road and the guard rail overlooking the Drina river and hydro-electric station.

 

141km

Camp site

2019-01-08 Day 119 Tue

A day in town. We left EC and walked down the very steep and long road to Sarajevo ending up in the old town. We met a “free tour guide” at the agency. We were the only ones on tour so had a great walk around the old town. The tour started at 10:30 and it was still -8℃. We had on lots of layers but by the end our feet were very cold. An interesting and sad history this town has had. The beginning of WW1 started here with the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand in 1914.

One particularly interesting place was the caravan vakuf. A vakuf is an ongoing deed that someone gives away to earn "browny points" even after he is gone. In this case it was a building where travelers could stay safely for 3 days with food provided for them and their animals for free. The doors were locked at night, and only unlocked in the morning after all agreed that their belongings were intact. This was back in the 1600’s and there were a number around the town. It cannot be sold. It still exists today but has been turned into shops and offices which pay rent.

After the walk we went back to the “pie “ shop and had a mixed plate of pies. These are fillings rolled in Filo pasty we had cheese, meat, potato and cabbage fillings. The cheese was best - great food! It was just a wee shop but had 4 ladies working. We had a glass of yogurt with it and it all came to 5mark which is about A$4.50. We then went back to the orthodox church and had a look. There was a christening underway but we had a quiet wonder through. The museum had lots of old paintings. The Roman Catholic Cathedral was locked so did not get a look through. We then stopped at a small Baklava shop and bought some with a Bosnian coffee. We walked around a bit more and revisited the copper street which has held that title for a few hundred years. Still manufacturing coffee pots and decorative plates all by hand. Some have been silver dipped. Some pieces were very elaborate.

We ended up back in the caravan vakuf for food but found out it was only a coffee shop no food. We had a very thick hot chocolate. The smoke finally drove us out.
 

Opposite, we visited the carpet shop and spent a good part of an hour dreaming… Some great saddle backs for camels and horses; and silk rugs and carpets. Can’t quiet justify 52,500 euro for the most impressive silk carpet…..

For dinner we had the local cevapcici; little sausages in a soft thick pita bread, with a glass of home made yogurt.

A taxi back up the hill. To far for me on weary legs.

10km

Camp site

2019-01-07 Day 118 Mon

Left our quiet camp (without boggy or getting stuck in snow drifts) and drove towards Sarajevo, an uneventful trip. 

We did go through a tunnel that was old with a very rough surface.

We stopped twice at police stations to register. The first one would not work as the address we had was not in the town so couldn’t do it. The next one we found out that we have to register after 8 days. So all good.

 

Daily chores continue  even in the cold

 

As we came into Sarajevo we were met by the Olympic rings.

We did not find a suitable lunch stop so arrived at Oliwood 20min before 4pm and before we said we’d be there. Got camp set up the plugged EC into shore power for the first time in 8 years/ever. We are going to try to equalize the batteries.

Had a warm shower and then a quiet night.

174km

Camp site

2019-01-06 Day 117 Sun

We drove further up the valley out from our road side camp, but not as interesting as it seemed on the map. Saw a small christian church with graveyard. Back passed a few people and all the empty houses with roofs collapsed. It must have been quiet a community in here once. A mosque is situated in the middle of the villages and is a much bigger structure than the church. 

On a corner was a snow drift EC stopped then slipped on her own iced tread. John managed to dig a track and reversed out. I left him digging tracks forward and I walked back for the snow plow. After 1.5kms I met the plow coming my way. Stopped and talked to him he nodded, slammed the tractor door and left. Damn I was hoping for a lift! A long walk back. John met me at the corner. He had got through and was picking up his equipment when the plow came through and made easy work of his shoveling….

We followed the plow to the main road, I got out shook his hand and handed him a kangaroo, a big smile in return.


On the road we came across this tractor decorated with branches with a group of guys on the trailer.  They had a few bottles of homemade plonk. A full bottle was passed through the window to us. We both had a sip and held grimaces at bay. Good fire starting material!!!. Despite enthusiastic signals to keep the plonk, we hand it back; certainly didn't need a litre of it!. We then noticed that some cars had twigs in their grills, In another village we came across another tractor and trailer load of people but were not stopped.

At Starigrad we viewed the small waterfalls and lovely lakes, it would be very different picture in summer.

We drove through the old fort's walls which was full of houses and shops.

The rest of out day was pretty good. But had a bit of trouble finding a camp. Asked a gas station if we could park by the river but he signaled us to the other side of the river. We drove over and along a well used uncleared white road.

Found a spot to camp but in turning around managed to put both back feet in a wet muddy drain under the snow in -3℃. Max-tracks didn’t cut it, so winched her out and parked the the night beside the road. Twice stuck in the one day.

161km

Camp site

2019-01-05 Day 116 Sat

Had a WhatsApp message from our visitor in the night. He was concerned that he had scared us in the night and that he came to take some time lapse photography but didn’t want to disturb us with his engine running. Amazingly thoughtful. 
 

John took some photos of an amazing sunrise bumped the camp up to a 5 star our first in Europe!!!

Some walkers came up and we chatted for a while. Then we left for Bosnia.

The region is very rocky and the fences are created just to get the rocks off the ground as olives trees don’t run away.

The exit of Croatia was quick and straight forward but the entry into Bosnia was a little slower. First off, the official would not accept the photocopy of our green card (3rd party insurance) so went and retrieved it. First time we have used the original. Next he was not satisfied with the copy of EC’s Rego. So dug around and found that, but it was last years with march 2018 on it. So went back into EC and finally found the 2019 one. He checked the date and was satisfied. Each time I went to get the original I ensured I took the copy back to EC with me.The customs had a quick look in the door and we were through.

The Australian gov smart-traveller website indicated we needed to register within 48hrs of arrival. We, not surprisingly are still a little touchie on this topic.

Stopped at a frozen over lake, Busko jezero, for lunch.

John found some tight contours on the map and wanted to investigate, so we would camp there. 
 

As we were closing in on the turn off, we stopped to chat to 3 young guys who couldn’t make it up the hill. They, didn’t have winter tires on. We didn’t really want to tow them as the sun had already sank and we would be camping close to dark as it is. Had finally decided to help when another vehicle arrived, John gave them a chunk of rope he’d picked up south of Punta Natales in southern Patagonian….

Our little white road through the villages had been cleared of snow so we felt OK driving along it. Space on the side of the hill was hard to find but finally a small spot loomed out of the dark. We turned around and set up camp. Gently snowing.

128 km

Camp site