Yesterday
we had made good progress so decided to try and change dates at the
hotel so we could have the 21st there.
Finally
managed to buy a SIM at the IPKO shop on Sunday in Desan (needed to provide ID). However, being Sunday it would take
up to two hours to register the number.
Driving to the monastery we
came around the corner to a road block, military post, tank, the works.
The Nato peace keeping force were looking after the monastery.
The Slovinian military had this job but there are another 23 countries
here. They checked our passports and let us through. At the monastery
gates another Slovinia peace keeper, took our passports in exchange
for passes. Chatting with him we learned about their role and why this
Serbian monastery needed such special attention. The others are under
the protection of Local police.
A
monk gave us a wonderful tour and explained the fresco’s, and
showed us the king’s sarcophagus he had the monastery built and
later became a saint as miracles were happening when people would
visit his coffin. The church had not been damaged in any of the wars
when nearby buildings had been destroyed.
A
group of 5 came in and talked to the monk, who then told us that he would be taking the lid off the sarcophagus, and would we like
to stand and watch (which we did). The
tapestry, steel lid and glass lid were all removed such that the faithful could each cross themselves and
kiss the saint's hand or cross. Last
was the lady for who needed the miracle. She crossed herself many
times then kissed the hand and lay her head on his breast. She sat on
the floor and the priest collected a prayer book and cross. The cross
went on the corner of the sarcophagus and he read from the book. We
wondered away and the moans and groans of the lady increased till
shrieks. After another good look around we let ourselves out. An
interesting experience. We
would have liked to discuss the process with the monk, but he was still engaged…. 
We
drove on north to Pec to visit another monastery. This time guarded
by the local police. It had 4 different “churches” off the one
waiting hall. Different to the others we had seen. Both of the last
two monasteries were as original, they had been cleaned and
maintenance done but no touch up. So lots of water damage. The marble flagstones and sarcophagus were fantastic.
We headed up the gorge - Quite impressive in some places but
was a bit foggy so could not see the tops of the mountains, so missed
some of the wow factor.
Finally
the SIM became active, for data but not calls. John navigated us through back streets to the same IPKO shop that I bought it to fix the situation.
Then finally got back onto the the hotel - and yep all good, could change the nights
so we high tailed it to Prishtina and the boutique Golden
Hotel,making it there in 1.5 hrs at 5pm.
The
suite was nice just like the photo. Large bed and sitting room. We
enjoyed a long hot shower then went downs stairs and had a steak for
dinner and shared a bottle of Kosovo red which seemed to hit the
spot. No smoking inside which is great.
140km
140km