Caleta Guabún is a little wind-swept, rock-infested harbour on the West coast, exposed to the entirety of the Pacific Ocean. There is a steep little beach of grey sand about 100m long, with a few sturdy boats crouched at the Northern end. When we visited, Caleta Guabún was making sand, and it was a noisy affair. Each wave that made it past the rocky sentinels, thrust itself up the beach carrying a load of fresh sand. As each wave receded, the sand rattled back down the beach with a raucous clatter. There was not a single grain of sand smaller than my fist. A magical place.