2018-12-03 Day 83 Mon




Another gorgeous day. After Michael went off to work in Sofia, we chatted with Elena until midday then we needed to move on.

We drove south to the Rila Monastery; John had previously visited in 2009 and over the years had told me about it. 


The external paintings on the church were amazing. John was perplexed that the Monastery was brighter than he remembered; and then delighted that almost all of the external murals has been completely restored. A few of his favorite paintings of purgatory were sadly still awaiting attention. Pictures of poor souls in chains being skewered and tormented by devils were still dull and foreboding, in contrast to the vibrant depictions of temptation and sin.

The inside of the church unfortunately forbids photography and the restorations are only just beginning. The climate was less crowded (just us), and less smokey, than John recalled. But the paintings were stunning, gilded carvings astonishing, and the collections of Saint bits mind boggling. Over the ages it has been popular to cut (dead) Saints up into little pieces, and distribute all of the little bits out to pious collectors. Rila Monastery, being such an important site, has a magnificent collection of some 32 pieces of Saint, all proudly on show in a little glass covered display case.

It was after 16:00 when we left the monastery and headed down hill. We did not want to stay in the valley as it still had a hard frost at the end of the day, so headed UP a side road and perched on a hill with great views. The first we have had for days.

125km