We
tried to use up the last bit of data and time updating photos and
blogs. We had visitors from across the road, two mums and 4 kids.
Several more people came to visit or revisit.
Two
military guys turned up then another 2 I think there were 5 of them
in a little car. They also said we could not stay but john again told
them we had spoken to the houses nearby, and that we’d be leaving
soon. All good. They piled back into their little car and left.
Finally
just before midday we packed up to go and spend the last of our
Azerbaijan cash and to find an ATM to withdraw some more US$ as cards
are not usable in Iran for foreigners. Also foreigners reportedly have trouble
buying a SIM.
I
also called John and Chris as this would be our last call possibility
for a while. Muff was away at a course but I managed to speak to
Puff.
We
drove into town and stopped at an internet cafe. John went there to
print our Russian application page to sign and I went into Azercell
to see if I could turn on roaming for Iran. No can do. Their network
does not work in Iran. No
ATM’s worked so thought we would try the bank.
The
bank was very full. A lady looked me up and down silently condemning
me and my bare legs. I walked up to her and asked if she had English
which she did a bit and helped me to the info counter and told the
guy what I was after. The guy gave me a ticket and the lady took me
back to the cashier counter and told me to watch the screen for my
number. V0002. I stood and waited for ages then ran outside and
yelled to john to bring his card and passport. I only had US$800 on
my card and on thinking our costs through I thought it’d be better
for John to withdraw US$2000. Finally our turn. With double and triple
checks on all forms and passport the guy finally handed over the
cash.
Finding
a secluded carpark near the beach we settled to finish our Russian
visa application and email it off to our helpers in Australia (Loretta muff & Puff) We required
them all to add something to the application.
John and I acknowledge to each other that we were both very tense about this
border crossing, The tension had been growing these last few days.
In the last month Iran has restarted enforcing a law about restriction
of motorbike engines. Nothing over 250cc, although some larger bikes
managed to get transit visas for 5 days. In the last few weeks there
was also mentioned on Facebook restriction on car engine size. And
just this morning a read that 3 days ago a traveler with a 3.5lt
engine was refused entry. A law that had been bought in 2 days prior.
Why
does it worry us if we cannot get in? Well a few reasons. We would
have already cleared out of Azerbaijan and therefor need another visa
to reenter. A visa takes 3 days or for a higher cost it could be
achieved faster. So
expensive, and then we would have to take the ferry across to
Kazakhstan which would mean we would also lose the opportunity of
using our visa for Turkmenistan which is difficult to get. Oh and
also we would loose our Iran visa €100 each as we had entered but
not the car……above and beyond that – the knowledge that the
Australian government on its website smart-traveller had raised their
assessment of Iran from yellow to orange (reconsider your need to travel to Iran" ….
I
did a quick shop at the market to spend some more of our cash, but
did not find a gas station to use the rest.
The
border crossing: Azerbaijan was surprisingly harder to get out of
then into. John had to take half of the boxes out of the locker and
put through the scanner. But didn’t need to take any out of the starboard locker. Inside the customs guy went through every draw. Ratted
through my clothes and in Johns clothes draw found his computer, the engraver and head phones. I explained the engraver and showed him the
kangaroo. When he unpacked it and turned it on his eyes lit up. He
liked the idea!.
Next
lift seats above the water heater. Then other side with all our electrics He dug through that found the multi meter, charging cables,
wifi-hotspot all the cables, chargers, and foreign plugs. All good.
Not even sure what he was looking for.
Finally
he was happy and we went inside to have the cars paperwork done.
Finally we were out took 50 mins. The really good thing was we were
together the whole time. Feels much nicer/safer.
MY
headscarf went on to compliment my long trousers and long sleeved
shirt!!! John was also in trousers.
Iran,
the initial guy checking our passports welcomed us to Iran. John
drove up behind another car next to a platform with a guy standing on
it. He had been dealing with the other car. He took our passports and
handed through the window. We exited and stood around. He made a
phone call and handed phone to john who answered the English
questions asked. Did we have insurance? “Yes a green card”. Did
we have Carnet de passage? “Yes already handed over”. And then he
was told that they would take care of everything.
This
“helper” was very active with a few cars. And slowly moved us on.
Then he needed to get the Carnet filled out but the guy had gone off
duty at 2pm. So he ran (literally) and we followed somewhere out the back to where a
lot of trucks were parked to a small building and told to wait while
the Carnet stamper came back to his office. It would cost us US$70.
Here we also met the guy who had spoken to john on the phone in English.
They
asked if we needed to exchange money at the government rate. We could
have got more outside somewhere but that has also been tightened
there are less official money exchanges. We said yes. The Carnet was
dealt with and bought back to us, the guy then ran in front to the
exit gate and got us out. Then along the street to meet the English
speaker. We were to wait while they got the cash.
The
cash arrived and john couldn’t count it. Toooo many zero’s Got it
straight after a while so all good and we were in with local
currency.
So
whether we really needed to pay the $70 for the Carnet we are not
sure however we were in and US$70 was much cheaper than two new
Azerbaijan visa’s.
What
a relief.
We
exchanged the money and drove off.
What we did not expect to see in Iran was rice rice and more rice. 
How petrol is sold for motor bikes. Just ride onto the footpath among the small shops and stalls buy a 750ml bottle, fill up and go again. Great idea!
Wow
Iran is friendly the people here (mainly men) often will instigate
the wave and yell out hello in English or sometimes Thank you. The
ones with more English formally welcome us to Iran.
Most
of the coastal road was just lined with small shops although there
were short gaps between towns. We stopped for bread, which I bought
more flat bread…. A guy in a fruit shop was friendly so we bought
a watermelon and pickled garlic. He gave John a couple of apples.
The other most noticeable produce was garlic by the truck load!
After
85km’s of people, cars, bikes and trucks all vying for a spot on the road, we gratefully turned and headed inland as there was not much chance of
finding a camp on the beach, too many people.
After
another 20kms up into intense green, then dark we camped on the side
of the road. Not one of our better camps but all the side roads had
been blocked so had no choice. It was already dark.
130km
130km