2017-07-29 Day 104

Back to Ollantaytambo to catch the 12.30 train to Machupicchu.

We tried to post a flash drive of photos back to Aus but could not do that from here. We dropped off 4kg of washing to be done while we were away (first time since being in SA have we done this). Had a coffee and Pizza for an early lunch.

The train we were on was Inca rail and just two coaches with engine underneath. 1Hr 40 to Machupicchu up a narrow valley with the hills increasing in altitude and more jungle growth.Alighted the train into tourist markets, Fought our way out and found our hotel, very nice room with matimonial bed.

After a shower and into “town” clothes we wondered around and had an early dinner. We were told that the queue for the 05.30 bus starts before 4am. We ordered breaky for 6.30.

2017-07-28 Day 103

Drove on back roads to Moray. Quite different terraces. They are a complete circle and extend down about 60m.

The story is that the Inca’s were experimenting with different plants at different altitude or micro climate. Upon seeing the site I felt that they had just used the natural shape of the land. 20 meters doesn’t seem to be enough height to change temperature/climate much. We had overheard a guide explain at Pisca that the Incas planted different crops at different altitudes of the terraces but there was 300m difference in top to bottom terrace.

Continued on a fantastic “white “ road down to yellow rd,

ended driving along and very close to a railway track.

Arrived in Ollantaytambo. Very busy, narrow streets. Parked in the car park with about 40 buses. Although the archeology site was very busy it was not too crowded. All the sites we have been to are very different.

30 mins before the sun set we headed up north on a narrow dusty road, on the map marked as yellow. It took us half an hour and 10km’s before we found a spot on a corner and tucked in by the river. A busier road at night. A car stopped and a couple of guys chatted to us once we explained that we’d be gone in the morning all was good. Being close to a noisy river hid the sounds of the vehicles but we still saw the lights.

2017-07-27 day 102

Had a late start as we had good Internet. Got most of the photos uploaded.

Just as we were leaving some other travellers passed. We caught up with them on the other side of town in a big Mercedes army truck (12.5 tonne). They have been on the go for 3 years.

Pisac had 50 buses parked on both sides of the road, however they were beginning to leave which was great. Only a small section of the site was available for viewing.

The terraces at the top were 10 meters wide 6 meters high and about 100m long.

Amazing amount of stone work. It seems it was only around for about 100 years (approx 1450-1550AD) before being destroyed by the Spanish.

We stopped in Pisca to buy bred ,bananas, apples and to get money. Then continued NW to visit Chinchero. We arrived at the right time as it was very quiet.

A Church had been built atop the ruins of an Inca temple. The grounds were larger than I expected. And more trinket Markets. Chincero also has a name for it's weaving.

This elderly lady was sitting on a terrace busy with her weaving. We chatted to her for a while. But didn't buy anything as we had no use for the  items. Wonderful colors and patterns though.

There was a large flat area on top of the terraces which was great for drying potatoes.

We did not explore all as daylight was running out.

Drove west on a white roads and parked above a lake for the night.

2017-07-26 day 101

At Tambomachay we paid our entrance fee for 14 sights S/130 (sols) A$55 each.

The stone work was amazing. All different sized rocks made to fit. The lower layer was altered to accept the next layer. All the rocks are “pillowed” they bulge outwards slightly.

Amazing how the stone walls merge with the natural rock.
When we exited from Tambomachay there was a crowd of people on the road. Teachers protesting. They would be marching down to Cusco.

Passed the protesters with their escort of special forces with shields and a variety of rifles, teargas guns etc.

Dropped into look at Q’enqo which has an underground cave/ sacrifice room and astronomical stones.

Then down to Saqsayhuaman which is the most visited site close to Cusco.

We hired a guide for S/40 which was good. We learned a lot and the site made more sense. This site was mainly a temple and water storage.

The water storage was circular about 50m in diameter and about 2m deep. about 2 megalitres. It supplied water to Cusco.  More Pillow rocks.

One the way down the hill we stopped at a restaurant for lunch. We shared a platter that had ½ cuy (guinea pig ), 1/8 chicken, eggcup of fish (crunchy fish roe) corn fritter( the best on the plate) all resting on really dried corn kernels… interesting meal. Oh and a beer each. S/ 50.

On into town to collect our tickets to Machu Picchue.

Out again the same way – north towards Pisac and another ruin. Camped just off a corner of road overlooking the township of Pisca. The road seemed to get busier with night.

Pulled stove apart to clean and test the temperature thermostat but didn’t get good readings.

2017-07-25 day 100

Drove on down the windy road towards Cusco. Empty plastic bottles are used in all  sorts of ways in villages.

Got EC washed for 25 sols = A$10.

Arrived in Cusco and drove around the CBD looking for the tourist info centre. Some mad drivers and one way streets and no tourist info office.

Did a couple of circuits. stopped  on a quiet street to research Machu Picchu. No road in so have to take the train. Did a bit of research but had bad internet reception so decided on a travel agent.

Off I went for a walk. A train to and from Ollantaytambo accommodation for the night and buses up to Machu Pichu $250 each. Oh well we are only here once. We had wanted to go on friday but there was no “matramonial” bed available on Friday night so Saturday it is.

Drove north of the city to find a camp near two archaeology sights, Tambomachay and Puka Pukara.

There were about 20 buses at the sight. Camped with a view of the city.

2017-07-24 day 99

20°C this morning. Such a change.

Today we follow a river up and up then we go up. In the 110km’s to the pass at 4800m we had driven 4.3km’s vertical.

Managed to stop for some orchids which were just everywhere.Stopped for lunch at a small tarn just over the pass.

Drove downhill for a while then detoured of the main(red) road and headed on an orange rd north to get on a yellow east west road.

The initial turn onto the yellow road included a bridge that we chickened out of. Another 10km’s of orange then onto a white to take us further along the yellow road. All good.

We squeezed past a cattle truck and at least know we can fit down the yellow track. Lots of pines and gums being planted. Most in small batches but by hand and way up on the hillside.

Camped on a side track with a view down the valley to Cusco.

There are gums planted here too.

A big day 208km’s

2017-07-23 Day 98

John ran the heater which stopped a few times with flame out issues. Maybe the altitude. It is only guaranteed to run at 2200 metres.

2 km’s drive and we were stopped until 10am when the road opens. Looks like major repairs underway. Road only open going north from 10-10:15, 12.05-1300 and 15:00–15:15. We chatted to others waiting. A few families.

One lady was feeding milk to a day old kitten from the corner of a plastic bag!

Two young kids were kicking around an orange each practising their soccer skills.

An amazing road with high hills all around. We followed the river down for most of the day.

In one village we bought a round of cows-milk cheese and some tree tomato or tamarilla’s, 10 for one sol (A40c) We have come downhill all day. And drove through jungle….

Just before Loromayo we turned west up another river.

I saw orchids flowering from the banks as we drove past but nowhere to stop. So different to the previous months of travel. We are camped above this river at 508m altitude, a vertical drop of 3.4km for the day!!

At the time of 5pm when we stopped it was 29°C; last night at same time 5°C. Heater is not needed although we did heat water for a shower; much easier than heating water on the stove top especially as the stove is not starting again