Yesterday
we had made good progress so decided to try and change dates at the
hotel so we could have the 21st there.
Finally
managed to buy a SIM at the IPKO shop on Sunday in Desan (needed to provide ID). However, being Sunday it would take
up to two hours to register the number.
Driving to the monastery we
came around the corner to a road block, military post, tank, the works.
The Nato peace keeping force were looking after the monastery.
The Slovinian military had this job but there are another 23 countries
here. They checked our passports and let us through. At the monastery
gates another Slovinia peace keeper, took our passports in exchange
for passes. Chatting with him we learned about their role and why this
Serbian monastery needed such special attention. The others are under
the protection of Local police.
A
monk gave us a wonderful tour and explained the fresco’s, and
showed us the king’s sarcophagus he had the monastery built and
later became a saint as miracles were happening when people would
visit his coffin. The church had not been damaged in any of the wars
when nearby buildings had been destroyed.
A
group of 5 came in and talked to the monk, who then told us that he would be taking the lid off the sarcophagus, and would we like
to stand and watch (which we did). The
tapestry, steel lid and glass lid were all removed such that the faithful could each cross themselves and
kiss the saint's hand or cross. Last
was the lady for who needed the miracle. She crossed herself many
times then kissed the hand and lay her head on his breast. She sat on
the floor and the priest collected a prayer book and cross. The cross
went on the corner of the sarcophagus and he read from the book. We
wondered away and the moans and groans of the lady increased till
shrieks. After another good look around we let ourselves out. An
interesting experience. We
would have liked to discuss the process with the monk, but he was still engaged….
We
drove on north to Pec to visit another monastery. This time guarded
by the local police. It had 4 different “churches” off the one
waiting hall. Different to the others we had seen. Both of the last
two monasteries were as original, they had been cleaned and
maintenance done but no touch up. So lots of water damage. The marble flagstones and sarcophagus were fantastic.
We headed up the gorge - Quite impressive in some places but
was a bit foggy so could not see the tops of the mountains, so missed
some of the wow factor.
Finally
the SIM became active, for data but not calls. John navigated us through back streets to the same IPKO shop that I bought it to fix the situation.
Then finally got back onto the the hotel - and yep all good, could change the nights
so we high tailed it to Prishtina and the boutique Golden
Hotel,making it there in 1.5 hrs at 5pm.
The
suite was nice just like the photo. Large bed and sitting room. We
enjoyed a long hot shower then went downs stairs and had a steak for
dinner and shared a bottle of Kosovo red which seemed to hit the
spot. No smoking inside which is great.
140km
We started seeing no canoe or kayaking signs
which we thought were strange. 
Further
down the lake was a museum of “lake of Bones” . I gather from Wiki
that there were many villages built out on piles and the remains of
the animals they ate are on the lake bed.
We
noticed a change, housing seemed less loved, and rubbish was not
collected. We drove the length of Pogradec and up the hill a little
then parked at the walking track symbol. As it turned out we could of
driven up but we had a nice walk up. Not much of the fort left to
see, so down again.
We
traveled south east down the edge of a big plain above the snow line.
To camp we turned up hill on a yellow and found a great spot near a
quarry off the road in the snow. The potential for a good view
We followed the lake West to the dam wall. The
overflow was a spectacular funnel sitting in the lake. 
It was
snowing big fat wet snow flakes one could almost hear them splat
against the wind shield.
Further
on we noticed a line of trucks and a police car. We were waved on,
another snowy pass at 1200m alt. The snow plough was coming up as we
went down. 
Still
raining gently, although the river banks are covered with bottles and
plastic there were 5 guys fly fishing with very expensive rods. I
think one may have caught a fish.
Instead
of driving directly to Kavadarci and a winery we decided to do a loop
on yellow. A wrong turn at road works and we sent 8km going the wrong way on a brand new freeway.
A
quick tour of one way roads to buy some fruit and out again
Then
off for another late camp. It had been raining on and off for most of
the day and when we got onto small dirt roads we backed out. Finally
got something just off a corner by an unlived in house. The hydroelectic lake
Brushani was very low.
Onto
the North Macedonian police and customs. A quick check of passports
and insurance, a stamp given and onto customs. Opened the house door
for him he asked if we had a dog or money to declare I replied no dog and
we use visa card. And we were through. 
John
managed a tight U turn on slippery ground and we followed him. Once we reached the turn off point the police asked us in for tea at a restaurant so we
obliged. Just wanted to learn a bit more about our travels. 
Finally,
as we saw the red highway looming and the pay station, we realized we
has no local currency. Stopping at the gas station I asked if the pay
station took Euros all good and off we went at 90km/hr, the fastest we’d
been for a while. Another pay station and into Skopje. John guided me
up to a fort where we squeezed in a full carpark. No snow here.
Managed to buy a Vodofone SIM for 2€; 2GB for 7 days.
We
knew we’d have a dark camp but harder than usual until we got way
out of town. Then we found one just off a yellow road between two
free ways down under the bridge and beside the river and mess.
This new huge church was minimalist inside; very different to the "oldies "
A
group of 5 came in and talked to the monk, who then told us that he would be taking the lid off the sarcophagus, and would we like
to stand and watch (which we did). The
tapestry, steel lid and glass lid were all removed such that the faithful could each cross themselves and
kiss the saint's hand or cross. Last
was the lady for who needed the miracle. She crossed herself many
times then kissed the hand and lay her head on his breast. She sat on
the floor and the priest collected a prayer book and cross. The cross
went on the corner of the sarcophagus and he read from the book. We
wondered away and the moans and groans of the lady increased till
shrieks. After another good look around we let ourselves out. An
interesting experience. We
would have liked to discuss the process with the monk, but he was still engaged…. 
We
drove on north to Pec to visit another monastery. This time guarded
by the local police. It had 4 different “churches” off the one
waiting hall. Different to the others we had seen. Both of the last
two monasteries were as original, they had been cleaned and
maintenance done but no touch up. So lots of water damage. The marble flagstones and sarcophagus were fantastic. 
Still drizzling. We left about 9:15 and headed towards
Kosovo. The orange road was quite windy and slow then we turned onto
a yellow one. Very windy slow and rough in patches. The first half of
the day was good we had some visibility then it closed in. Most of the day was spent in the mountains in snow between 700-900m
altitude. 
There were a lot of these webs on the pine trees.
The donkey was patiently awaiting his owner.
A light was on but could not
rouse anyone. A couple walked buy and I asked them he also tried to
raise the security guard with no success, but they both said it was OK
to stay here the night.
